I am fairly new with the wines of Gianfranco Manca ( Panevino). My first Panevino was Alvas which actually was also my first orange wine tasted. Raisonnance, their importer in Quebec offered me a taste in the now defunct Montreal restaurant La Salle a Manger. During those years, I knew very little about natural wine and nothing about Orange wine.
This wine was so different and unique from others that made me think about the concept of transcendence in wine. This is a seldom concept found in wine but more in art.
Deriving from the Latin transcendere, which means to climb beyond, transcendence implies the sensation of having a sense of significance beyond ourselves. There are as many ways of experiencing transcendence as there are people. It can be a religious experience or non-religious such as being connected to other people, nature, or the universe, or it can apply to a wordly experience of passing through a difficult situation. In the end, transcendence relates to a feeling of purpose in the world or the joy of being alive.
Great art is transcendent. It directs to something outside itself and the artist who made it.
A reason why the Greek civilization believed in gods and muses. They were in touch with something : Art describes the outer limits world; it points at the hidden story.
Can the same principle could be applied to wine?. Until that day, I wasn’t aware and was happy to discover it with Panevino.
There was something mystical about that alvas and to this day I cant forget. It went beyond the completely unique perfurm and its marvelous texture on the palate. It was an experience greater than the sum of its parts. The wine elevated me and conncected me to the land but more important to the hidden soul of Gianfranco.
It was the same feeling with Shugussucci. A field blend of indigenous Sardegnan wine varieties, this wine display so much energy and vibrancy. It is hard to pinpoint that elusive feeling. It is truly an emoional wine, much the same feeling like looking at a canvas of Mark Rothko.
Here is the formal tasting note for descriptive purposes with no intention of capturing the emotional wine aspect
Aromas of wild oregano, amaro herbs with dry dark fruit tones complemented by cured leather and hints of volatile acidity. On the palate, multilayered with snappy acidity. Deeep flavours of red flowers, Jamaican curry with currants. Raging finale reminiscent of animal notes such a cured meat and goat meat.
Panevino is represented by Raisonnance in Quebec, Canada by strict allocation only.