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La mia passione per il vino

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La mia passione per il vino

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I am an agent of change

29 Monday Jul 2019

Posted by productionslevin in France, Rhone, Uncategorized

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natural wine

person wearing mask holding colored smoke bomb

Photo by Connor Danylenko on Pexels.com

In my teenage years, I had left wing political inclinations. Growing up in Venezuela, it became almost an ardent religious belief that I could change everything that was wrong in Venezuelan society. This was the 90’s in Latin America and it was in fashion to listen Fito Paez, Soda Stereo, Enanitos Verdes and Soda Stereo. Feeling nostalgic now, I remember with candor how me and my friends used to drink cheap rhum and read passages of Che Guevara:The Motorcycle Diaries.

As I grew older and entered young adulthood, this romantic idealism faded away. The reality of the world was based on money and social status. My grandfather used to tell me: You know how to change an Italian communist?. Give him a good job, nice clothes, a car and sexy woman. Honestly, I felt that alone could not fight the whole system and became part of the establishment….until not long ago when I left it with flying colours

Rebel once, rebel forever. I guess that this idealism is still with me today..it never went away. I do a job that I love, live a modest life and drink a fair amount of natural wine.

My wife once asked me: So if you like natural wine, are you against those that dont drink natural wine?. It’s not about a dogma or a principle war, its about a choice that I make.I favor natural, biological and biodynamic wines because they are good for me and strongly believe that I make a contribution to preserving the planet. I sttill review conventional or classical wines. Absotutely, I will favor those with the minimum footprint on the planet

My stand with natural wine makes me an agent of positive change. The bottles that I buy, my reviews and the impressions all help to protect the real culture of wine. Actually, I am voting with my buying dollar for a better and healthier wine world.

The greatest gift that natural wine has given me, it’s a voice to express my solidarity with those vignerons that craft beautiful bottles. A long time ago, someone told me that drinking wine is an act of humility and intimacy. The act of drinking a real wine is to peek into a secret window inside the mind the secret world of a winemaker.

I am a rebel at heart for the love of wine

Domaine La Grande Colline-Hirotake-Ooka

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Le Canon 2015

One of the most emblematic wines that I have ever tried in the past years came from this man: Hirotake Ooka. It sounds odd that a Japanese guy makes natural wine in the Rhone but it is one of the weird beautiful things of life. The wines of Hirotake are available in Quebec, Canada via Primavin.

Le Canon is a tasty blend of Grenache and Syrah. It has delicious taste of leafy blackfruit with a touch of animal funk and spice. Its spritzy in the palate and it keeps really well the next day if you dont finish the bottle. The wine is born out of a soil of mica and granite and the vines have an average age of 30 years young. No oak in this wine, just steel tank. Price is under $30 per bottle and it comes in a case of 12. This bottle comes from my private collection.

I am looking foward to try its Cornas, once it becomes available via Primavin.

 

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An Alpine Pinot Noir

16 Sunday Jun 2019

Posted by productionslevin in Uncategorized

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Jean Perrier Cuvée Gastronomie Pinot Noir 2018 SAQ # 00856997, $16.25

Generally speaking, Pinot Noir is not one of my favorite grapes. I can appreciate it and from time to time I will have it.

This Pinot from Savoie was really charming. The nose was really attractive with notes of black plums, cherry and Christmas cake spicy. On the palate, it was medium body, fruity and fresh with a juicy mouth feel. It was a natural partner with BBQ chicken breasts.

This is one of the rare wines that you feel proud to have discovered. Great buy and highly recommended it.

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Going the extra mile as a wine writer

29 Wednesday May 2019

Posted by productionslevin in Uncategorized

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Photo by rawpixel.com on Pexels.com

The role of the wine writer may seem glamorous to some observers and the dream job of many. Who wouldn’t want to get wine for free, go to tastings or even participate in a press trip?. That’s the allure feedback that I get from many consumer acquaintances in my entourage.

In a certain way all of the above is very true. It is very pleasant to drink wine and dine in some of the finest restaurants when a producer comes to town. However, that’s the rosy part. If you’re a serious writer you are required to produce a professional report on the wines that you have tasted or a trip in some cases. It is not mandatory but it’s sort of an unwritten expectations in this business.

That’s the mandate of the role to say the least. Another way of seeing it, it is like preparing a school report or a project. If you care about what you are doing, you want to ace it and impress your professor. In this business, you will be also become a persona non grata very fast if you never write about the stuff that you receive or get invited.

That’s one dimension of the business. Another one less looked is the scope of wine reporting. It is common and quite understandable that some wine bloggers and wine journalists report only about the samples they get. Although, this is ok, it may be very limited coverage. The importers and producers that give free wine are those with usually large advertising budgets. If you want to write about a particular small producers, you have to buy the bottle with your own hard earned dollars.

This is what I call doing the extra mile or being invested. I totally understand that the stuff cost money but if you are really passionate about something, would you not do it? Every month, I spend hundreds of $$$ in wine to have access to the artisanal producers that nobody else talks about it in the mainstream media. At the beginning of my wine career I used to ask those importers for samples and keep hearing the same response: no budget. It took me a while to get over my frustration but finally understood that the small producers and their importers dont have budget to give away free wine. But still, they need to have a voice. Could you imagine if nobody would never talk about those wonderful natural or biological producers. It will be a very sad world.

But then again, there are those who get into this business to have the glamorous life and drink for free and those who are totally indepedent. Then you have people in the middle of the sandwich, like myself, who are able to talk about the small and commercial. I get samples now and then  but with the difference that I dont ask anymore. The rest of the wine expense comes out of my pocket. This is the spirit of independence that made Parker famous. Then again, I have a job and can pay myself for the wine. The difference is that I really love wine and sharing my passion with the rest of the word. However, I cant talk about everything that I love because otherwise, I would ruin myself.

The future of this business are for those who are self-financed and passionate about wine. The internet and social media have democratized wine information. In a future that is not too far away, there will no more paid magazines or newspaper with a wide readership. There wil be a sort of natural selection among wine writers. The world is yours if you can only invest yourself in the burning passion

Three wines that no mainstream wine  journalist is talking about. All paid with my humble salary:

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Domaine La Ferme Saint Martin Les Terres Jaunes 2017 $28.75 ( 12 pack case, Imported by Rezin in Quebec, Canada)

One of the best kept secrets of the Southern Rhone is the appellation of Beaumes-de-Venise and this is a jewel of a producer. Bio since 1998, this wine is not for the faint hearted. Plenty of leafy blackberry fruit with that elusive garrique-pencil shaving with breat taking yet noble tannins.

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Anne & Jean-François Ganevat Le Sa Vient d’Où ?. Available at the SAQ ( 14019351) for $54.50

To drink a Ganevat is a privilege and a mind altering experience. One of the luminaries of Jura and the natural wine world, this wine comes from the negoce of the winemaker. Bright and mind boggling aromas of white tea, pineapple water and truffle honey. Incredible purity, grace and precision in the palate. If you are not converted to natural wine, this bottle will do the job. Think about Arnold Layne by Pink Floyd

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Domaine de la Roche Bleue Le Clos des Molieres Sec 2016. Imported by Boires in Quebec, Canada for $61. Six pack case, I believe

I was never convinced until I tried this wine of Sebastien Cornille from Jasnieres in the Loire. A pure nose of chalk, acacia with a psychodelic trip into the realm of flowers.  Elegance, yet humility. Beautiful. When you drink it, think about the white rabbit song by Jefferson Airplane. “And if you go chasing rabbits, and you know you’re going to fall, Tell ’em a hookah-smoking caterpillar has given you the call”

 

 

 

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The perfect Rhone white blend for your lobster

21 Tuesday May 2019

Posted by productionslevin in France, Rhone, Uncategorized

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Lobster. Rhone Valley

lobster1

Château Pesquié Terrasses blanc 2017. SAQ #  13945265, $19.05

With Lobster season in full swing, here is the perfect opportunity to explore the white side of the Rhone Valley wines.

The Chaudière family has managed the vineyards of this estate for three generations. Only organic treatments and composts are used for the grapes. Weed management  is done by working  the soil, and harvesting is exclusively manual. There are three main terroirs on the property: rocky limestone clay, red clay and loamy gray clay. They grow Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault, Mourvedre, Roussanne, Clairette, Viognier, Chardonnay and Muscat

A sure  solid value in the SAQ, the terrases  blanc from Pesquié is an bright, aromatic blend of Viognier, Rousanne and Clairette. Hailing from Mont Ventoux, this white will seduce you with its bright undertones of verbena, lemon meyer, apricot and honey. Fresh and round with a creamy mouthfeel and a smooth acidity, it is perfectly suited for your lobster weekday meals, specially if they are grilled!!

Disclaimer: Sample provided by the agent for review purposes

 

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Bon appetit!!

Grilled_Lobster

Source: Food Republic

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The new conspicuous wine buying arrogance

15 Wednesday May 2019

Posted by productionslevin in Uncategorized

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Hey you, glad you have stopped by to read my musings or like we say in Venezuelan Spanish: pendejadas!!

Here I am killing some time while they replace my car tires, or between baking and at the dance course of my daughter.It is the only time that I can write in peace. If I am not taking bread that will urgently be overcooked, I am attending to my highly extroverted 5 year old daughter. Oufff…just when I think I will some peaceful moments then I have to tend to some wife issue!!. This is my life: the tragic comedy of a baker with wine writing aspirations.

Why I am writing this post?. I am trying to answer a question posed to myself. What would I buy, if I had a $1million a month.

Wine has never been stranger to conspicuous consumption. This is one of the less looker reasons wine regions created classification systems: to make you feel better when you buy a product of a certain prestige.

The new conspicuous wine consumption is based on substitute products ( wine). Here I am thinking of the business model of Michael Porter. To put it plain, if you can’t afford a very expensive wine go for the second best.

In the past early internet days or bull markets of the 90’s, classified Bordeaux growths and Burgundy Grand Cru were bought with a blink of the eye. These were the times I learnt about wine. I remember fondly buying my first Massetos in those early times where the banking industry was not highly regulated. The trophies needed to demonstrate your wealth

A lot of classical wine drinkers stopped drinking their favorite Bordeaux’s and Barolo’s because simply they did not have the cash anymore to afford it. This happened shortly after the tech and banking crisis of the early 2000’s. There is also the factor of increased demand from emerging markets such as Asia and certain Latin America countries.

So now a lot of these classical wine drinkers drink now certain artisanal wines ( natural) to feel better about themselves. This “feel good” feeling has been fueled by the artsy wine guerrilla. They are drinking now wines between $20-$30. But wait..it won’t work because unless is not endorsed by certain public personalities. And you know what the kicker is…the wines are getting quite expensive. Your new wine importer is like a crack dealer.

It makes me think of the glorified new Gamay drinkers. Don’t tell me about terroir or natural vinification technique. Tell me the truth. Can’t drink anymore authentic Burgundy Grand Cru so now I can only drink a chinese copy of DRC.

So what would I drink with a $1 million a month: Only First Growth Classified Bordeaux

Ciao!!

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How to identify the hipster wine consumer

24 Wednesday Apr 2019

Posted by productionslevin in Uncategorized

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They lurk sometimes around you. If you are lucky, you can spot them in your friendly SAQ outlet buying that rare orange or natural wine. However, this is not their preferred habitat. They buy mostly privately and hang out with the hottest sommeliers in the latest artsy restaurants

My non wine friends asked me about these new wine consumers. I made up a sketchy point list of features. Maybe you can add a few more to complete the list.

-They love wines with high volatile acidity. It has to be slightly deviant at the least to be attractive

-They are attracted to rare and obscure grapes. For instance, they love the occult Italian grapes from Piedmont, Tuscany and Sicily.

-Adverse to the classical European wine regions. Allergic to Bordeaux, Classical Rioja and can go in shock in the presence of Super Tuscans.

– They all share a fascination with wine domaines that years ago where not in fashion but only known to wine connoisseurs

-They can’t tolerate oak and only swear by stainless steel in their wines, mostly

Now some demographics and sociological factors:

-Yuppie or moneyed professionals. These are the lawyers, bankers or business marketing people or IT people. They are making at least a 6 figure salary.

-Between their 30 and mid 40’s

-They love to eat in artsy restaurants with china from another time and small portions

-They live mostly in trendy neighborhoods and disdain the suburbs

I like them and they bring diversity to the wine world. Hope you liked this post. I did it while my daughter was in dance class

Cheers!!

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Seduced by the charm of Provence rose

16 Tuesday Apr 2019

Posted by productionslevin in Uncategorized

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I came to really appreciate provence rosé wine in my mid twenties trough my Parisian wine mentor Christine. Much like new oenophiles, rosé wine was an afterthought for me. The traditional dictum that I held in my mind was that “pink” wine was not worthy of contemplation. Was I wrong?. Very much, I admit.

My 101 introduction to Provence rosé was no less than Château Simone paired with Petit farcis. The setting for the encounter was a cold January winter night in an old and decaying Côtes Des Neiges apartment. After all this years, I still think that it was a great masterclass

An iconoclastic wine, it hooked me up right away to the style. There was a serenity and calm to this wine that deeply hypnotized me and took me to the sunny lands of Provence. My curiosity for Provence and its wine scene in general was also sparked after reading a year in Provence by Peter Mayle.

mayle

Source: Telegraph India

I was shocked to find that Mr. Mayle passed away earlier this year. If I could, I would have eat the words of a year in Provence. It was such an appetizing book.

Since the early 2000’s, the selection of Provence roses have improved modestly in the SAQ. I don’t have all the exact figures yet but I can say that Provence roses is enjoying more than a momentum. Exports of Provence wines to Canada soared by 38% in 2016 (source: CIVP et Douanes françaises). By the way, Provence rose is good for all the seasons, not exclusively for the summer. I have enjoyed it with fine and elegant suppers and down to earth BBQ’s. It is just a question of creativity and thinking outside the box.

Because we cannot drink Chateau Simone all the time, here are two great roses to get you started for the exploration of Provence

Château la Martinette Rollier de la Martinette 2017. SAQ # 13448699, $21.70

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Rollier de la Martinette is inspired after the Roller bird pictured on the label; these birds migrate from Africa to Southern Europe and Château de la Martinette where they try to eat off the delicious grapes in the vineyards.

A blend of 40% Cinsault, 25% Grenache, 20% Syrah, 15% Tibouren. This display a beautiful pale salmon colour; though it looks quite delicate, this vintage has an intense note-honey, lavender, peach, white lilacs and cantaloupe. The wine is crisp and round with a long floral and mineral finish. An enticing finale that brings to mind tangerines and white cranberries. The 2018 should arrive soon at the SAQ shelves.

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This is a great wine for drinking with barbeques, pizzas or as an aperitivo with tapas. It could also go well with other strong flavoured dishes such as curries or strong cheeses.

Clos de l’Ours L’Accent 2017. SAQ # 13919438, $26.40

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Michel Brotons makes one of the best roses from Provence from Clos de l’Ours. I recently it discovered at the recent  Salon de Quilles Montreal.

The property was restored  just a few years ago, in 2012. Situated  just south of the Provençal village of Cotignac in the Var, in the northern tier of the appellation Côtes de Provence, this is a pretty  property with 13 hectares (32 acres) of vines and a charming guest house.

The rose is a blend of Grenache, Cinsault, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Carignan. Floral with nuances of tangerine and  hints of melon. On the palate,  delicate with flavours of lavender, white peonies and a creamy finale. A truly gastronomical rose.

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A glass of vino with chicharron!!

05 Tuesday Mar 2019

Posted by productionslevin in Uncategorized

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The simplest wine pairings are the best. Sometimes what we really need with that special bottle is just a tasty bowl of our favorite snacks be it chips or chicharron ( pork rinds)

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I don’t do potato chips or other corn-based since following a low carb diet lifestyle. On an occasional basis, you will see me enjoy a small bowl of popcorn. However, what I really enjoy and can eat without counting carbs  is a nice bowl of chicharrones. In my teenage years, living in Venezuela, I would enjoy them  with a cold beer or a rum with coke. nowadays, beer and rhum are not my favorite drinks.

This also being the beginning of sugar shack season, you will also see pork rinds in many cabanes de sucre. Actually, I will skip the sugar shack this year due to my dietary restrictions.

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So what to drink with your chicharrones?.  Basically, you should eyeball a medium body red with some tannins for the fat but not too much because the salt will accentuate the tannic sensation in your palate. Sparkling wines and Champagne work best because they will cleanse your palate. The above pictured wines are excellent and affordable choices for your next piggy snack!!!

Domaine des Hauts Baigneux Spontané Blanc 2017. SAQ # 13879801. $24.45

This beautiful ” pet nat” is the brainchild of star winemakers Nicolas Grosbois and Philippe Mesnier ( Domaine des Hauts Baigneux). Although working from the Loire Valley, they also source grapes from the French Southwest  ( Semillon, Len de l’el and Mauzac) to make this wine.

Very aromatic nose reminiscent of japanese pear, rose water and vanilla bean. On the palate, dry and slighty saline with a long and pure finale.

Joseph Faiveley Bourgogne 2016. SAQ # 00142448, $25.10

Faiveley is a well established name in Burgundy and does not need an introduction in these pages. This famous  company has been based in Nuits St Georges since the days of Pierre Faiveley who founded the business in 1825. His son Joseph gave his name to the enterprise, to be followed by the first François, Georges who was instrumental in founding the Chevaliers du Tastevin, Guy who developed the business in the Côte Chalonnaise, François who has recently retired and now his son Erwan, born in 1979.

Lovely Pinot Noir with hints of smoke and sun-dried tomato laced with strawberry puree and bright raspberry undertones. On the palate,  structured with soft tannins complemented by delicious flavours of licorice and black fruits.

Podere Castorani Cadetto Montepulciano d’Abruzzo 2015. SAQ # 12494651. $18.40

Podere Castorani is the wine project of F1 star Jarno Trulli and his family in the Abruzzo region. Although a big estate in the region, Castorani has been making high quality wines since 1793

Textbook Montepulciano nose reminiscent of dark plums and cherry. Full body, yet fruity with lush and chewy tannins.

Disclosure: The wines above were tasted at the A3 Quebec February press tasting.

 

 

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Que seras, mi Syrah!!

18 Monday Feb 2019

Posted by productionslevin in France, Rhone, Uncategorized

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Northern Rhone, Syrah

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My love affair with French Syrah goes back to my early years of wine drinking. The bottle that started my sentimental affair was a Chave Hermitage Rouge 1998. It was seduction at the first sip with its occult raspberry and blackberry undertones but what really felt like lovemaking was the sanguine and animal quality that only Northern Rhone Syrah can give.

Bordeaux and Burgundy are cold to me. Every time that I drink a super Rhone syrah, I always get that feeling that the wine is stripping me slowly. The foremother of my  wine passion, Christine  always use to tell me that eventually all wine roads lead to Syrah. There is something elusive and highly passionate about drinking a St-Joseph, Crozes or Cote Rotie.

In a perfect world, I will drink Hermitage on a daily basis. However, the most famous cru of the Northern Rhone could be like a high maintenance girlfriend. It is nice to have it from time to time but it could burn you if you have it often. Oh yes, passions can kill you.

Here are three lovely examples of Northern Rhone Syrah that you can find in the Quebec market. They are nicely enjoyable and wont kill you like the black spider. Enjoy. Whats the perfect food match of Northern Rhone Syrah?. It is grilled meat. So take out the snow from your BBQ and get grilling.

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Domaine Grangier Reflets de Syrah 2016. SAQ # 13113750, $31.25

Notes of spearmint, licorice with violets and fragrant summer blackberries and a hint of horsesaddle, cocoa as well.  On the mouth, delicious and dangerously fruity. Long and round in the palate, it is a charmer with a rich yet balanced finale.  Very smooth with fine cashmere tannins. Delicate flavours of korean BBQ and anis complement uplift this beautiful St-Joseph.

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Domaine Monier Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes Syrah 2016. Private Import ( Les Vins Dame-Jeanne, $30.87, Six bottle case)

A trascendental nose. It goes beyond the usual suspect aromas of dark blue fruits. Taking it to another level, the word complexity for an entry level Northern Rhone Syrah. Aromas of olive tapenade, roasted seaweed with an intense nose of iron verging towards dry blood. Yes, it has an electric charge of electric  blueberry nuances. Structured and opulent on the palate, yet so easy to drink with those seducing tannins. Long and meaty finale.

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Maison les Alexandrins par Nicolas Perrin Crozes-Hermitage 2015. SAQ # 12661826, $29.10

Dark fruits with that sensational dusty minerality of the appellation. With some aeration in the glass a bit of black smoke and blueberry character on the glass as well. On the mouth, dense and finely concentrated with muscular tannins.

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Cheers my dear readers!!!

 

 

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Keeping your sanity with food and wine.

06 Sunday Jan 2019

Posted by productionslevin in Uncategorized

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Christmas holidays are usually a hectic and stressful time. I spent most of my December doing 12 to 14 shifts at the bakery where I work. The nativity month took an incredible physical and mental toll on me. This combined with the agonizing commercial spirit of the holidays was a recipe for panic attacks and anxiety.

There was not too much time for writing or drinking fine bottles of wine. After those longs work days, I came home wasted of tiredness and spitting maledictions to almond croissants and baguette croutons.

What prevented me going Normand Bates during December was my passion for food and wine. Solace was found in the bottle of wine with the simple but exquisite food dish to pair with it. Actually a memorable bottle that I drank was a Domaine Vaquer 1988. This was an exquisite bottle showcasing the sexy shades of mature Carignan. I brought the bottle from my latest trip to Rousillon in 2017. Cocoa, wet leaves, tobacco with a blissful elegance and finesse. Out of the blue, I popped the bottle with a butter saffron chicken curry on Christmas Eve.

A bit of a planned affair was the Cabernet Franc from Domaine Breton Bourgueil 2011. Opened a bit too soon showing fragant aromas of rose peppercorns, strawberry and licorice. Fine and elegant with a bit of a drying finale. It was not my first choice. It was either this or the Pierre Gonon Saint Joseph 2015. It was elegant and classy with a steak dinner. Good wine but I am not a Loire wine lover.

The best wine moments are the improvised ones. Too much planning in wine and food pairing kills the romance in wine. It is like making an appointment on when to have sex.

Tomorrow is the last day of the festivities and I have no idea what I will have. As I write these lines, I am watching Soprano episodes and feeling much better already.

The only thing I know is that I want to have a Galette Des Rois. I will take it from there.

Peace

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Marco Giovanetti

Wine expert and lover of life's nicest pleasures

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