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La mia passione per il vino

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La mia passione per il vino

Category Archives: Rhone

Wine and vacations. Do they really go together?

02 Monday Sep 2019

Posted by productionslevin in France, Rhone

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Luberon, Rhone

two clear wine glasses

Photo by Vincent Rivaud on Pexels.com

As my family vacation came to and end, I cannot help to reflect about the hardships of not drinking proper wine and the lessons learnt by the absences of my favorite vino!!

Sophisticated wine drinkers like myself could be quite fuzzy so it could be quite challenging to find their favorite bottles in a non friendly wine environment. I would like that you think: Walt Disney and South Central Florida. Add to the equation a wife that does not drink wine and you are set for a partially frustrating holiday.

If you are going away to a non wine friendly wine destination, here is some practical tips that could make your life easier.

  • Research your area. This is the most important point and can’t stress it enough. Find out about potential wine and spirits stores and decide if their portfolio suits your taste. If you are lucky they may deliver to your hotel or airbnb in advance.
  • No expectations. Don’t make yourself ideas that you would drink special bottles in your vacation. You may arrived tired at your resort after a hard day sightseeing. This was my case every evening after visiting a theme park at Walt Disney
  • Bring your own booze. Most countries including the US and Canada would allow you up to two bottles of wine per person. If you are a person with special drinking needs ( natural wine drinkers) this is a pretty good solution
  • Try something new? The more you drink wine, the better would be your wine appreciation. If you really want to drink wine and find yourself on a tough spot, it could be a good opportunity to drink what’s available and that’s it!!
  • Wine Detox. Maybe that vacation to an unfriendly wine area is the perfect timing to quit drinking for a while. Every year, you should take some time off with booze. Trust me, you will feel better in your skin. My recent vacation was my second time this year that I took an abstinence period

When you come back to your real life, you would appreciate better the wine that you have on stock.

Were your vacations hard on your pocket? Did it cost an arm and leg and maybe one eye?. Well, here is an excellent wine reccomendation that won’t make you  pawn any additional body part!!

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Bonpas Luberon Grande Réserve des Challières 2017. SAQ # 14056515. $12.30

A beautiful white to sip outside your patio while it is still warm enough. Lovely white peach aromas with a hint of dry jazmin leaves and lots of white peonies character.  A Rhone blend  of Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Ugni blanc and Vermentino  Medium body with a plesant acidity and  flavours reminiscent of fine herbs and mandarines. Long finale reminiscent of pineapple peel. This is way too much wine quality for under $15. Buy with your eyes closed.

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I am an agent of change

29 Monday Jul 2019

Posted by productionslevin in France, Rhone, Uncategorized

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natural wine

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In my teenage years, I had left wing political inclinations. Growing up in Venezuela, it became almost an ardent religious belief that I could change everything that was wrong in Venezuelan society. This was the 90’s in Latin America and it was in fashion to listen Fito Paez, Soda Stereo, Enanitos Verdes and Soda Stereo. Feeling nostalgic now, I remember with candor how me and my friends used to drink cheap rhum and read passages of Che Guevara:The Motorcycle Diaries.

As I grew older and entered young adulthood, this romantic idealism faded away. The reality of the world was based on money and social status. My grandfather used to tell me: You know how to change an Italian communist?. Give him a good job, nice clothes, a car and sexy woman. Honestly, I felt that alone could not fight the whole system and became part of the establishment….until not long ago when I left it with flying colours

Rebel once, rebel forever. I guess that this idealism is still with me today..it never went away. I do a job that I love, live a modest life and drink a fair amount of natural wine.

My wife once asked me: So if you like natural wine, are you against those that dont drink natural wine?. It’s not about a dogma or a principle war, its about a choice that I make.I favor natural, biological and biodynamic wines because they are good for me and strongly believe that I make a contribution to preserving the planet. I sttill review conventional or classical wines. Absotutely, I will favor those with the minimum footprint on the planet

My stand with natural wine makes me an agent of positive change. The bottles that I buy, my reviews and the impressions all help to protect the real culture of wine. Actually, I am voting with my buying dollar for a better and healthier wine world.

The greatest gift that natural wine has given me, it’s a voice to express my solidarity with those vignerons that craft beautiful bottles. A long time ago, someone told me that drinking wine is an act of humility and intimacy. The act of drinking a real wine is to peek into a secret window inside the mind the secret world of a winemaker.

I am a rebel at heart for the love of wine

Domaine La Grande Colline-Hirotake-Ooka

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Le Canon 2015

One of the most emblematic wines that I have ever tried in the past years came from this man: Hirotake Ooka. It sounds odd that a Japanese guy makes natural wine in the Rhone but it is one of the weird beautiful things of life. The wines of Hirotake are available in Quebec, Canada via Primavin.

Le Canon is a tasty blend of Grenache and Syrah. It has delicious taste of leafy blackfruit with a touch of animal funk and spice. Its spritzy in the palate and it keeps really well the next day if you dont finish the bottle. The wine is born out of a soil of mica and granite and the vines have an average age of 30 years young. No oak in this wine, just steel tank. Price is under $30 per bottle and it comes in a case of 12. This bottle comes from my private collection.

I am looking foward to try its Cornas, once it becomes available via Primavin.

 

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The perfect Rhone white blend for your lobster

21 Tuesday May 2019

Posted by productionslevin in France, Rhone, Uncategorized

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Lobster. Rhone Valley

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Château Pesquié Terrasses blanc 2017. SAQ #  13945265, $19.05

With Lobster season in full swing, here is the perfect opportunity to explore the white side of the Rhone Valley wines.

The Chaudière family has managed the vineyards of this estate for three generations. Only organic treatments and composts are used for the grapes. Weed management  is done by working  the soil, and harvesting is exclusively manual. There are three main terroirs on the property: rocky limestone clay, red clay and loamy gray clay. They grow Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault, Mourvedre, Roussanne, Clairette, Viognier, Chardonnay and Muscat

A sure  solid value in the SAQ, the terrases  blanc from Pesquié is an bright, aromatic blend of Viognier, Rousanne and Clairette. Hailing from Mont Ventoux, this white will seduce you with its bright undertones of verbena, lemon meyer, apricot and honey. Fresh and round with a creamy mouthfeel and a smooth acidity, it is perfectly suited for your lobster weekday meals, specially if they are grilled!!

Disclaimer: Sample provided by the agent for review purposes

 

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Bon appetit!!

Grilled_Lobster

Source: Food Republic

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Two “Blue Chip” roses for Spring celebrating

01 Monday Apr 2019

Posted by productionslevin in France, Rhone, Tasting Notes

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Provence, Rhone Valley Vineyards, Tavel

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In the investment world, Blue Chip companies are the captains of their industry. These are safe and profitable enterprises that can weather adverse economic conditions and still deliver a consistent return on investment.

How does this apply to wine?. A wine producer or estate must be able to deliver a consistent and high quality product vintage after vintage. It is understandable that a wine will reflect the character of its vintage but the winemaker must be able to navigate adverse conditions and deliver a sound product. After all, in a pragmatic perspective, wine is just an economic commodity with an opportunity cost.

Who are the blue chips estates of wine?. These are the grand chateaux of France, the famous Tuscan or Spanish estates to mention a few. What do they have in common?. These producers have an established track record of consistency in wine production.

This concept can also be micro applied as well not only to the most famous name but also the small artisanal producer. What’s important to remember is result consistency.

Bottom line: treat your wine drinking like your money investing strategy and you won’t be disappointed.

Whispering Angel is the successful commercial brand of this famous Provence rose from Caves D’Esclans by Sacha Lichine. Bordelais by origin, Sacha has worked in every aspect of the wine industry. The notoriety of this wine can be attributed not only from its magnificent terroir and winemaking but as well to the business acumen of Monsieur Lichine. Sacha’s American business education and broad International wine industry experience has served me strategically well to promote his wine and overall Provence rose wine drinking.

Whispering Angel sells in more than 100 countries worldwide and has 20% market share just in the U.S wine market. It’s success can be attributed because it is well perceived among all the stakeholders of the wine industry: From the millennial wine critic to the most demanding wine critic.

This is a majority blend of Grenache, Rolle, Cinsault, Syrah and Tibouren. Pretty nose of cantaloupe, white peonies with a very refreshing acidity. Quite an appetizing wine that would be awesome with grilled seafood. At the SAQ for $26.90 ( 11416984)   for the 2018

Another all time favorite rose of mine is Domaine de la Mordoree Tavel 2017. Tavel is the only appellation in the Rhone Valley that strictly produces rose wine. Tavel roses have more weight and structure than your standard French rose wine. The aromas are spicier with darker fruit undertones, kind of like walking the fine line towards a light red wine.

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Domaine de la Mordoree is the project of father and son Francis and Christophe Delorme. Its  vineyard holdings group together 50 ha in 8 municipalities across 38 parcels in the Rhone Valley. In 30 years, Francis Delorme elevated this domaine and  consequently the appellation to one of the best of the Rhone Valley and the world.

Sadly Christophe passed away in 2015 but his work legacy continue in the hands of her wife and daughter Madeleine and Ambre. This domaine is in  totality biological with a biodynamic approach.

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Spaghetti with fresh tomato sauce and tuna rio mare

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2 Pizzas: tomato meat sauce and rapini with mushrooms

La Dame Rousse is a mix of Grenache 60 % Cinsault 10% Syrah 10 % Mourvèdre
10% Clairette 5% Bourboulenc 5%. The vineyards are relatively old ( 40 years) and they grow in a mix of terroir that include rocky and sandy soils

Very pleasant on the nose with floral aromas reminiscent of potpourri, watermelon with a hint of violets and strawberry ganache. Dry and structured on the palate with a perfect tension between acidity and ripe fruit. Smoky finale.

One of the few roses that  can stand up to savoury flavors of tomato based pastas and pizzas. The 2017 retails at the SAQ for $31.25 ( 12376881). It is a must buy for your upcoming BBQ’s as well.

asparagus barbecue cuisine delicious

Grilled pork tenderloin with asparagus

Disclaimer: The above wines were tasted at my local SAQ outlet in Repentigny, Quebec. The author does not have any commercial relationship with the importers and these were not samples. 

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Que seras, mi Syrah!!

18 Monday Feb 2019

Posted by productionslevin in France, Rhone, Uncategorized

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Northern Rhone, Syrah

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My love affair with French Syrah goes back to my early years of wine drinking. The bottle that started my sentimental affair was a Chave Hermitage Rouge 1998. It was seduction at the first sip with its occult raspberry and blackberry undertones but what really felt like lovemaking was the sanguine and animal quality that only Northern Rhone Syrah can give.

Bordeaux and Burgundy are cold to me. Every time that I drink a super Rhone syrah, I always get that feeling that the wine is stripping me slowly. The foremother of my  wine passion, Christine  always use to tell me that eventually all wine roads lead to Syrah. There is something elusive and highly passionate about drinking a St-Joseph, Crozes or Cote Rotie.

In a perfect world, I will drink Hermitage on a daily basis. However, the most famous cru of the Northern Rhone could be like a high maintenance girlfriend. It is nice to have it from time to time but it could burn you if you have it often. Oh yes, passions can kill you.

Here are three lovely examples of Northern Rhone Syrah that you can find in the Quebec market. They are nicely enjoyable and wont kill you like the black spider. Enjoy. Whats the perfect food match of Northern Rhone Syrah?. It is grilled meat. So take out the snow from your BBQ and get grilling.

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Domaine Grangier Reflets de Syrah 2016. SAQ # 13113750, $31.25

Notes of spearmint, licorice with violets and fragrant summer blackberries and a hint of horsesaddle, cocoa as well.  On the mouth, delicious and dangerously fruity. Long and round in the palate, it is a charmer with a rich yet balanced finale.  Very smooth with fine cashmere tannins. Delicate flavours of korean BBQ and anis complement uplift this beautiful St-Joseph.

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Domaine Monier Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes Syrah 2016. Private Import ( Les Vins Dame-Jeanne, $30.87, Six bottle case)

A trascendental nose. It goes beyond the usual suspect aromas of dark blue fruits. Taking it to another level, the word complexity for an entry level Northern Rhone Syrah. Aromas of olive tapenade, roasted seaweed with an intense nose of iron verging towards dry blood. Yes, it has an electric charge of electric  blueberry nuances. Structured and opulent on the palate, yet so easy to drink with those seducing tannins. Long and meaty finale.

crozes

Maison les Alexandrins par Nicolas Perrin Crozes-Hermitage 2015. SAQ # 12661826, $29.10

Dark fruits with that sensational dusty minerality of the appellation. With some aeration in the glass a bit of black smoke and blueberry character on the glass as well. On the mouth, dense and finely concentrated with muscular tannins.

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Cheers my dear readers!!!

 

 

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Silène Crozes Hermitage 2016

19 Wednesday Sep 2018

Posted by productionslevin in France, Rhone

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Chave, Crozes-Hermitage, Trialto

Slowly but surely the 2016 vintage from the Northern Rhone Valley is making its way to our Canadian shores. Although not as rich as the 2015, the current offering is all about freshness and elegance.

J.L Chave is a name that does not need introductions here. Everybody that knows a thing or two about fine French wine has heard about him. I am certainly familiar with his wines since my introduction to Hermitage was with him. Wine growers in the northern Rhône since 1491, the Chave family (currently represented by Gérard and son Jean-Louis) represents 16 generations of a committed family saga to the production of some of the finest Syrah, Marsanne, and Roussanne wines on this world

What some winelovers may not know is that the family has a negociant wine business on the ise. For a modest price, you can taste the savoir-faire of the family.

“Silène” Crozes-Hermitage is 50% family Syrah and 50% purchased. Like all things Chave, the quality bar is high even at the entry level.

It is often said that Crozes-Hermitage is a meager expression of Hermitage but there is nothing poor about this wine. While the 2015 was richer and decadent with the 2016, Silène returns to the classic character of the appellation.

Bright aromas of anis, dill with violet and lavender character. Classical Northern Rhone Syrah flavours of bacon, cherry and raspberry.Polished with a juicy acidity and a long lingering finale.

I highly recommend to buy this wine. Available at the SAQ (12950281) for $31.50.

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Grandes vinos del Rodano-Una breve introducción a las denominaciones del Norte

01 Friday Sep 2017

Posted by productionslevin in France, Rhone, Uncategorized

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En espanol, France, Rhone

KONICA MINOLTA DIGITAL CAMERA

Cornas

Hay algo en los grandes vinos franceses que a veces desorienta al público en general: los grandes vinos de las mejores zonas nunca llevan el nombre de ésta en la etiqueta. Tampoco existen los conceptos de crianza, reserva, gran reserva, tan familiares en los vinos españoles y en algunos vinos chilenos y argentinos. Entremos entonces,de norte a sur, en ese mundo fascinante y, a la vez, desconcertante: el vino del Ródano.

Los vinos franceses están valorizados más en cuanto a procedencia: las denominaciones de origen son pequeñas, y debido a eso existe una gran variedad. Por ejemplo un burdeos bueno se llama Pomerol, St. Emilion o Pauillac y que un excelente borgoña puede ser un Puligny, Meursault, Vosne-Romanée o Nuits-St.-Georges. ¿Pero, y el Ródano?. Esta es una zona menos conocida. En mi último viaje a la región a principios de abril tuve la oportunidad de familiarizarme de nuevo con los vinos de la región.

En la gran feria de vino (découvertes en Vallée du Rhône 2017) que se realiza cada dos años, tuve la oportunidad de degustar los vinos del norte y sur del Ródano.

Aunque los vinos del Rhône son usualmente agrupados juntos, en realidad la región se divide en dos distritos: Norte y Sur. En esta ocasión vamos a ver primeramente la principales comunas que conforman el distrito Norte (Côte Rotie, Condrieu y Hermitage Crozes-Hermitage). En otra ocasión, exploraremos los vinos de la parte sur (Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Luberon, etc).

Cote Rotie Guigal

Vinedos Cote Rotie Guigal

Côte-Rôtie

La Appellation Côte-Rôtie Protégée, es la más septentrional del distrito Norte, este vino, conjuntamente con el Hermitage, constituyen los vinos más robustos y longevos de Francia.Côte-Rôtie. Côte-Rôtie sólo produce vinos tintos y la denominación tiene una superficie de 307 hectáreas. En 2016, la producción fue de 12,589 hectolitros y el 23% de su producción fue al extranjero

Côte Rôtie, que se puede traducir por la ribera tostada o asada, es un pequeña montaña de escarpadas laderas. También hay parte del viñedo plantado en llano, que suele ser más productivo y de menor calidad. Es una de las denominaciones que ha crecido más en los últimos años, ocupando en la actualidad unas 200 hectáreas su viñedo, cuando hace 40 años se reducía a poco más de 50

Los vinos son elaborados a partir de la variedad Syrah, mezclada con entre un 2 y un 20% de una uva blanca llamada Viognier, ambas vinificadas juntas. La Viognier es la uva de la acidez, aroma y elegancia, la Syrah es la uva del sabor, la fruta y el tanino, razón por la cual es mezclada

Algunos de los mejores productores de Cote Rotie incluyen René Rostaing, Jean-Luc Jamet, , Gérin, Ogier y Yves Gangloff. Quien no haya sentido el perfume de un Côte Rôtie, no sabe lo que se pierde: notas ahumadas, de aceituna negra, tocino, especias, violetas y frutos negros. Son unos vinos muy carnosos y con gran potencial de envejecimiento.

Villard-Condrieu

Vinas en Condrieu de Francois Villard

Condrieu

Condrieu, con unas 191 hectáreas de viñedo, es la cuna de la gran blanca conocida por viognier. En Condrieu solo se producen vinos blancos. Los líderes de esta apelación son Yves Cuilleron y el recien fallecido Georges de Vernay.

Boileau, el gran poeta francés decía que el Condrieu puede “alegrar el corazón”.Lamartine, el político de la segunda república francesa contaba también que el Condrieu “calentaba los sesos”. Georges Vernay fue el presidente de la denominación durante 30 años. Con él, Condrieu recuperó por fin la fama que merecía de un gran vino. En esta región, los aromas de albaricoque, en ocasiones de violeta y de flor blanca de viognier se ven contrarrestados por una intensidad y una mineralidad que aportan a esta cepa toda su razón de ser.

Chapoutier-Hermitage

Chapoutier-Hermitage

Hermitage

Hermitage ha sido de siempre un vino noble y de mucho renombre. De hecho, a principios del siglo XIX, era el vino más caro de Francia, superando incluso a los “premier crus” de Burdeos. Es más, se hacían “cuvées” especiales de los vinos de Burdeos mezclandolos con Hermitage tinto, dando lugar a los “Bordeaux Hermitagé”, que eran considerados superiores a los Burdeos normales.

La montaña de Hermitage, situada a la espalda del pueblo de Tain l’Hermitage (cuna a su vez de el chocolate, Valrhona), produce la totalidad de los vinos de la denominación, en unas 137 hectáreas. Hay tanto tintos como blancos. Syrah y un 15% máximo de uva blanca en los primeros, y marsanne y roussanne para los segundos son las castas autorizadas. Son vinos, que necesitan de largo tiempo en botella para mostrar todo su pedigree .Si me tendria que quedar con un solo productor, sería sin duda Chave. Otros nombres a destacar en Hermitage son los de Jaboulet, con su conocido La Chapelle, y Chapoutier, ampliamente alabado por la crítica internacional (sobre todo americana), lo que ha causado que sus precios suban excesivamente. Se produce también una pequeña cantidad de vino dulce, llamado “vin de paille” (vino de paja), ya que se dejan las uvas sobre cestas de paja para que se sequen y pasifiquen antes de hacer el vino.

Cornas y los otros

De Cornas, que tiene solamente unas 144 hectáreas, el decir era que producía “los vinos más bárbaros de Francia”. Aquí sólo es permitido 100% syrah. Los vinos son rústicos pero a la vez son sedosos y elegantes en el paladar, pero tampoco es para tanto. Los grandes lideres de Cornas han sido Auguste Clape y Thierry Allemand, seguido de cerca por Alain Voge. Otros productores interesantes incluyen Vincent Paris, Pierre Gaillard y Domaine du Coulet

Crozes-Hermitage y St. Joseph son zonas más grandes, 1637 hectáreas en Crozes, y unas 1213 en St. Joseph, con diferentes terrenos, con viñas en ladera, pero muchas otras en llano y en tierras más fértiles, por lo que la calidad es más variable. Se producen blancos y tintos (en mayoría absoluta), con las mismas variedades que en Hermitage: syrah, roussanne y marsanne. Es en general tierra de “negociants”, con precios más asequibles. Alain Graillot , Jaboulet y Delas producen buenos caldos en estas zonas.

Totalmente casi desconocida, al límite sur se encuentra St. Péray, al que Robert Parker llamaba “el Parque Jurásico del Ródano” en su obra “Wines of the Rhône Valley”, produce los únicos vinos espumosos de todo el valle con una muy pequena produccion.

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Découvertes en Vallée du Rhône 2017: Cairanne, Rasteau and other Southern Crus

10 Monday Apr 2017

Posted by productionslevin in France, Rhone

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Inter Rhone, Rhone Valley Vineyards

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This week I am in france between the Northern and Southern rhone to tackle the vast world of Rhone Valley wines. From tomorrow until the 13th, I will be heavily inmersed in Rhone wines, which is one my favorites. This trip was sponsored by the Inter Rhone wine association.

Despite a sleepless flight from Montreal and a quick ride by van to Avignon, I find myself highly captivated by the quirky roman-gothic style of the city. With a sunny day and mild temperatures, and a unexpected brunch the trip is off to a good start.

Sunday brunch was a very informal affair at the Cloitre St-Louis, next to the Avignon Grand hotel, where I am staying for the next two days. Elegant brunch french fare starring roasted fish, black ink risotto with an assortment of focaccias, charcuteries and quiches.

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Got a chance to taste two wonderful whites Domaine de la Mordoree Lirac Blanc 2011 and a white Cairanne Cuvee D’Estevenas Corinne Couturier 2007. La Mordoree was a refined and quite elegat wine, showing intense floral, white nectarines and pear aromas. Round and fresh, it still has the lenght to age a decade or two.  An assemblage of 30% Grenache Blanc, 15 % Viognier, 15% Rousanne, 10% Marsanne.

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The Cairanne 2007 was powerful, rich and oily. Exotic aromas of guarana, passion fruit, with a hint of lemon confit and orange marmalade. Tight and potent with an unexpected brutish in a good way youthful finale. A predominant blend of Rousanne  with the rest Marsanne and Clairette Blanche  So little we know of the white Rhones and so much we need to discover still. Specially that they can age so well.

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Later on the evening, I went on to an informal party hosted by the Cairanne and Rasteau delegation AOP. The Cairanne appellation in the Côtes du Rhône recently obtained cru status, joining well-known names such as Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Gigondas and Crozes-Hermitage. Rasteau AOC was elevated to Côtes du Rhône Cru status in 2010.

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The informal tasting was a great opportunity to learn about Cairanne and Rasteau side by side. There are barely 17 wines of both appellations combined at the SAQ which is like a drop of water in the ocean, compared to the depth of wines tasted.

The Cairanne whites were lovely with pretty fruit undertones bringing to mind white nectarine and citrus fruit. On the palate, there were bright, elegant and quite balanced. Terrific companion with fish and seafood.  I will deeply miss these wines when I come back home.

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The reds were quite terrific as well. My preference goes for the Cairannes which had lovely textures, silky and refined with lovely tannins. In contrast, the Rasteaus had more structure and weight on the palate.

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Both wines respective aromas were amazing as well. More ripe red fruit with earth notes, in contrast with the dark-blue fruit notes of the Rasteau. Both wines also displayed licorice and balsamic and other anis influenced notes. These are the wines to drink with Mediterranean roast read meat dishes.

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Marco Giovanetti

Wine expert and lover of life's nicest pleasures

Top Posts & Pages

  • Three wines for Piri Piri chicken
  • A glass of vino with chicharron!!

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