Vietti is one of the famous names in Italian wine. Its traditionally-styled Barolos are benchmarks of their type: amazing complex reds that, thanks to the Nebbiolo grape’s muscular tannins and high acidity, can age easily for decades. The smart choice in its uniformly great portfolio is this Nebbiolo, Perbacco, whose name roughly translates as “wow”. It is sourced from vineyards that carry the prestigious “Barolo” designation, -meaning that it could be bottled as a Barolo-but carries the modest Langhe Nebbiolo classification instead. It’s also made following the same productions methods as Viette’s Barolos, but released two or three years earlier. The Perbacco Nebbiolo gives a glimpse of what makes Barolo so special at a fraction of the price. Winemaker Luca Currado, whose family has grown Nebbiolo grapes in Piedmont since the 1600s, make this cuvée from a selection of lots that would otherwise go into his family’s pricy Castiglione Barolo.

Though small in terms of land area, Castiglione Falletto contains many excellent vineyards. Soils and terrain are diverse in this transit zone between the finesse of Barolo and La Morra and the power of Serralunga and Monforte. Castiglione’s top wines are said to posess elements of both.

Vietti Perbacco 2011. SAQ Code:  10861031. Price: $27.85

On the nose, ethereal perfumes of flowers, earth and dried cherries. In the mouth, full body displaying a good acidity with broad shoulder tannins. Marvelous retronasal aromas bringing to mind cherry compote with woody, herbal undertones leading to a crescendo of anis, licorice and eucalyptus notes. Quite long with a seducing aftertaste that reminds of whole wheat cinnamon cake. 95/100