Category Archives: Italy

Wine Review: Cascina Tavijn Ottavio 2018

12 Saturday Sep 2020

Posted by in Italy, natural wine

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As I get older and continue my exploration of Italian wines, purity and originality are two key qualities that set the standard for me in the wines of the Italian peninsula. Beyond aesthetics, I am searching for wines that speaks of the territory and tell the story of the people that make them.

After all wine is an object of art because it elicit powerful emotions. Piedmont in Italy is full of artisanal winemakers with a beautiful story to tell. These are the inspirings artists that brings us the great liquid canons that we enoy every night.

One of these protagonists is Cascina Tavijin. Nadia Verrua reminds me for a strange reason of the Countess of Castiglione. Maybe because she was flamboyant or plain original?. Cant pinpoint why, but her wines are truly beautiful and original.

It took me a while to get the Ottavio bottling ( which Nadia named after his father). It is a 100% Grignolino with great rustic Piedmont rustic roots. It is available by strict allocations only and it might be sold out by the time I am writing these lines. Represented by Oenopole, it has a great price tag ( $27.55. Case of 12)

Cascina Tavjin Vino Rosso Ottavio 2018 ( $27.55-Case of 12, private import-oenopole.ca)

100 % Grignolino. Aromas of dry redcurrants, roasted herbs complemented by delicate nuances of cacao buds and tobacco leaf. Medium to full body and quite earthy. Savoury animal notes with a killer finale that reminds me of labrador tea leaves. Quite harmonious wine. Well paired with a simple pasta consisting of spinach, mushrooms and pepperoncino with lots of Reggiano.

Ampeleia Unlitro 2019

27 Monday Jul 2020

Posted by in Italy, Tuscany

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In Tuscany, there are those that vinify at 12.5% and the rest at 14.5%. Nowadays, my personal taste in wine goes with the former. Juicy, crunchy fruit with little or no oak at all. These are the Italian wines that grace my table every weekday

Ampeleia is the personal proyect of Elisabetta Foradori, Thomas Widmann, and Giovanni Podini. Miss Foradori is a well known figure to me. If you have not heard her name, it is time you explore her wines. She is responsible for the ascension of Teroldego Rotaliano grape in the Italian hall of fame.

With Ampeleia, Elisabetta aspires to represent the diversity and terroir of the Maremma specially the Colline Metallifere. The estates strives to craft traditional wines of the area rather than international versions.

Ampeleia Unlitro 2019. SAQ # 14110500, $24.95

This wine is a blend of varieties originating from the Mediterranean Basin: 40% Alicante Nero (aka Grenache), 25% Mourvedre, 15% Carignano, 15% Sangiovese, 5% Alicante Bouschet coming from vineyards at 180-250 meters above sea level.

Beautiful nose in synchronicity reminiscent of fresh red fruits, complemented by elegant gamey and floral notes. Fresh, with a beautiful acidity. Medium body. It was just perfect with Rotolo pasta on a Sunday night supper.

Represented by Oenopole in Quebec. Get it while you can. You won’t be disappointed!!

Panevino Shugusucci 2017

30 Tuesday Jun 2020

Posted by in Italy, natural wine, orange wine

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I am fairly new with the wines of Gianfranco Manca ( Panevino). My first Panevino was Alvas which actually was also my first orange wine tasted. Raisonnance, their importer in Quebec offered me a taste in the now defunct Montreal restaurant La Salle a Manger. During those years, I knew very little about natural wine and nothing about Orange wine.

This wine was so different and unique from others that made me think about the concept of transcendence in wine. This  is a seldom concept found in wine but more in art.

Deriving from the Latin transcendere, which means to climb beyond, transcendence implies the sensation  of having a sense of significance  beyond ourselves. There are as many ways of experiencing transcendence as there are people. It can be a religious experience or non-religious such as being  connected to other people, nature, or the universe, or it can apply to a wordly experience of passing through a difficult situation. In the end, transcendence relates to a feeling of purpose in the world or  the joy of being alive.

Great art is transcendent. It directs to something outside itself and the artist who made it.

A reason why the Greek civilization believed in gods and muses. They were in touch with something : Art describes the outer limits world; it points at the hidden story.

Can the same principle could be applied to wine?. Until that day, I wasn’t aware and was happy to discover it with Panevino.

There was something mystical about that alvas and to this day I cant forget. It went beyond the completely unique perfurm  and its marvelous texture on the palate. It was an experience greater than the sum of its parts. The wine elevated me and conncected me to the land but more important to the hidden soul of Gianfranco.

It was the same feeling with Shugussucci. A field blend of indigenous Sardegnan wine varieties, this wine display so much energy and vibrancy. It is hard to pinpoint that elusive feeling. It is truly an emoional wine, much the same feeling like looking at a canvas of Mark Rothko.

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Source:Britannica.com

Here is the formal tasting note for descriptive purposes with no intention of capturing the emotional wine aspect

Aromas of wild oregano, amaro herbs with dry dark fruit tones complemented by cured leather and hints of volatile acidity. On the palate, multilayered with snappy acidity. Deeep flavours of red flowers, Jamaican curry with currants. Raging finale reminiscent of animal notes such a cured meat and goat meat.

Panevino is represented by Raisonnance in Quebec, Canada by strict allocation only.

 

Thoughts on wine and art appreciation

13 Wednesday May 2020

Posted by in France, Italy

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multicolored abstract painting

Photo by Steve Johnson on Pexels.com

Beyond food, something that always pairs well with wine is art. If you love these two subjects, you will want to learn more about these two incredible things. Have you ever wondered what wine would pair with your favorite art movement or artist? Me neither, but I thought it could be a good topic of writing.

These days with plenty of time on hand I have taken up to study art movements and different painters. My reason for this is to get a  head start for my art bachelor program coming up in the fall.

After a supper with my glass of wine, I proceed to the pleasure study of something artsy. It could be by watching a documentary or looking at a virtual gallery in Google Arts and Culture. It is a very enriching experience to combine these two passions.

Recently I was studying Matisse with a nice glass of Bruno Duchene La Luna Rose 2018. This fauvist artist  has been described as the  master of colour and I could quickly establish a relationship between the painter style and the wine.  The work of Matisse that I studied was the portrait of his wife

La luna rose is a half half blend of Syrah and Mourvedre. Highly aromatic, it is a heady and intoxicating blend of sweet red fruit with balsamic touches and violets. On the palate, exuberant and energetic yet balanced and quite elegant.

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Source: Fine Art America

At first, the portrait of Madame Matisse gives me as well an inebriating mix of colorful emotions. It is mesmerizing specially when you look at the green line that separates the face. It clearly sets the frontier between the passionate and the placid.  Much like the line, the acidity and crispness of the rose balances out the exuberant fruitiness of the wine

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A similar parallel can be described by looking hand by hand at  Corino’s Barla 2011 and some of Henri Rousseau paintings. Barla is a late harvest Barbera and a masterpiece of a wine. Very emblematic, it strikes me with its deep and soulful black fruit notes complemented by tamarind and cacao notes. It is a primitive wine yet highly precise wine. It evoques the same feeling as when you look at some of Le Douanier paintings, especially the jungle ones.

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Rousseau The Dream. Source: Google Art Proyects

At first I was not sure of this comparison. I thought the wine resembled more like a painting of Chagall. The Russian love painter is more esoteric and subdued. A Chagall could be nicely enjoyed lets say for instance with a Grand Cru Chambertin for instance. The Barla-Rousseau comparison was the idea of my wine peep Charles. As an art newbie enthusiast, I still lack lots of expertise in analysis. 

Do you have any thoughts on enjoying art and wine pairings. What are some of your favorite pairings?

A beautiful Italian red to celebrate Mother’s day

07 Thursday May 2020

Posted by in Italy, Veneto

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Mother’s day is around the corner and there is some time left to get something small for your mama.

My mom Ana always tells me in Spanish: El que no quiere a su madre, no quiere a nadie. It translates to if you can’t love your mother, you are not able to love nobody else.

Give your mamma, a nice Italian bottle so she can have on her own or with you guys this coming Sunday. Wine is the gift that keeps on giving. It brings people together and it is a social cohesive.

The Sartori Ripasso Valpolicella 2016 ( SAQ #10669242, $17.45) is what you want to bring this coming sunday. Vintage tasted 2015. A sultry Venetian red that will complement the sunday roast or lasagna. It has a very attractive nose that brings to mind raspberry jam with touches of pitted cherries. On the palate, it has a silky texture with fine tannins. Slight sweet, it has complex retronasal aromas that brings coffe beans and dark chocolate. A long finale.

Even though, I can’t be with my mamma this coming Sunday, I will do a virtual cheers with her.

Pushing the limit on the taste of orange wine

01 Friday May 2020

Posted by in Italy, orange wine

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Two gret maceration whites tasted this year…

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The Le Coste estate  is located in Gradoli, in the province of Viterbo, near Lake Bolsena on the border between Lazio and Umbria. A beautiful area  of ​​Etruscan heritage with beautiful landscapes such as the Valle dei Calanchi on the slopes of Civita di Bagnoregio. Here the soils are of volcanic origin rich in iron and minerals that make the wines fragrant. Le Coste was born in February 2004 with the purchase by Gianmarco and Clementine, the owners, of three hectares of abandoned land known as “Le Coste”. The goal was to produce products deriving from organic agriculture in synergy with nature and the surrounding landscape. Today Le Coste covers an area of ​​about 14 hectares, of which three of vines planted by Gianmarco and Clementine, four of old vineyards for rent, four of olive trees and three of woods, where were you can find  patches of Mediterranean scrub, wild chestnut trees and elms. Gianmarco and Clementine apply the principles of biodynamics to their plants.

Le Coste bianco is made with  Malvasia di Candia, Procanico and other local varieties. The nose is incredible reminiscent of grapefruit, confit lemon peel and nuances of clove. Intriguing floral notes as well that bring to mind camomille and star anise wrapped up in a magical note on iron or iode. Medium to full body with a beautiful sour acidity that recall tropical citrus fruit. Lovely structure with a nice coherence in the palate. A very long finale.

Available as a private import through Agence Sans Nom ( $47, six pack cas

The Twilight zone of wine

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Dario Princic Sivi 2016

Dario does not need an introduction in these pages. All of his products are magical and pushes the limit of winemaking. Bianco Sivi 2016 defies the usual conventions on how Pinot Grigio should be vinified. A highly subjective wine that recalls me the fountain urinal sculpure by Marcel Duchamp in 1917.

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The nose is quite striking revealing aromas of cherry licqueur with a touch of hibiscus and cocoa.  Some salty notes of caramel as well.However, it does not occur at the same time. It unfolds to the taster with time. Be patient when you take this wine. On the palate, it is quite structured with a combination of spicy aromas and tropical fruit. It actually brings to mind pineapple cake.

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The greatness of this wine comes from its aging. It was macerated on its skins and aged for 30 months in french oak casks.  It was a great pairing with whole wheat pasta with ground veal and coconut milk with two beaten eggs to add more richness to the dish.

Available via Agence Boires. Six pack case (  68.50+Tx)

Cheers!!!

Rethinking Primitivo with Cristiano Guttarolo

12 Sunday Jan 2020

Posted by in Italy

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Primitivo is one of those grapes that you have high expectations but feel utterly dissapointed when didn’t deliver. Yep, that’s my experience with the poster grape of Puglia. I think the grape has always been having an identity crisis. As far as I known, It might be trying to produce a certified copy of a grotesque Zinfandel. Lots of Primitivo taste super oaky and jammy. You might be drinking a concoction of wood with different sort of black fruit marmalades.

For a while, I didn’t drink any Primitivo because it was so boring..until I discover the wines of Cristiano Guttarolo.

I never heard of this Cristiano fellow before. Actually, I bought by reputation only since the wines were featured in some of the best tables of Montreal that included Elena, Vin Papillon and Joe Beef. In addition, a few Italian natural wine cognoscenti were drinking Guttarolo so I went ahead and ordered my first cases. Now this was exactly last year.

I was hooked right away. Cristiano is like the horse whisperer for Primitivo and Negroamaro. He brings out a third dimension to the grapes. So much complexity bringing to mind layers of earth, vegetal undergrowth and succulent fruit. However, what’s more striking is the balance and elegance of the wines. This is just because Cristiano vineyards sit on a limestone plateau in Puglia 400 meters above sea level. Daytime temperatures are cooler than usual because of a strong influence from the sea.

Of course everything is done by hand and he is biological as well. Every Cuvée that he crafts is just electrifying. The latest one that I tried was it’s Amphora 2018 Primitivo. The wine spends a few days on skins before being pressed off in terracotta amphora to rest for 6 months.

I loved this wine. It was delicate and elegant displaying a floral side of Primitivo that I never experienced before. Very bright red fruit notes with a lovely juicy mouthfeel and a funky rustic feeling. It has a bit of volatile acidity that adds complexity to the wine.

It is available as a private import in Quebec, imported via Glou. $49.30. It is by case of 6 only. I paired it with ravioli with mushrooms in a tomato sauce

An intimate encounter with Jermann

24 Monday Jun 2019

Posted by in Italy

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It does not happen often that I taste wines from any pioneer estate in Italy. So, when I heard that Jermann was coming to Montreal, I quickly jumped to the opportunity because they single handedly put Italian white wine on the map.

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The legacy of Jermann to the wine world is Vintage Tunina. This eclectic wine reflects the adventurous personality of its creator: Silvio Jermann. Vintage 1975 marks the debut of Tunina and quickly became a cult item.
Silvio wanted to make a blend that reflected the diversity of the Friulian territory yet with a modern outlook. In the past, the issue with Friulian whites was early oxidation, heaviness and high residual sugar. Jermann introduced revolutionary changes such as early picking and moderate oak aging that are represented in Vintage Tunina.
After all, the changes that Silvio introduced were only to preserve the biodiversity of the Friulian territory. Besides the special Ponca terroir, there are very special grapes such as Ribolla Gialla and Pignolo and of course Friuliano.

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It is without doubt that one of the benchmarks of the region are the wines of Jermann. There is only a handful of producers that I know that can craft wine as pure and elegant like this great Friulian producer Recently, I met Aloiz Felix Jermann for a comprehensive tasting of his family during his passage in Montreal. The invitation was a courtesy of his Quebec Importer Selections Frechette
Below my selection of my favorite wines

Tasting Notes:

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Pinot Grigio 2018 ( 6 pack case-$40.25, private import)

IGT Venezia Giulia, 100% Pinot Grigio
Very classic style with such an elegant nose. Aromas reminiscent of pear sorbet and flint with notes of blanched herbs as well complemented by a hint of honey and blossom water in the finale.

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Jermann Chardonnay 2018 ( 6 pack case-$43.75, private import)

IGT Venezia Giulia, 100% Chardonnay
Quite an aromatic nose. Church incense, with hints of lemon zest. On the palate, bright flavours with a creamy structure displaying a wonderful balance. Tight finale. Will need some aging in the cellars to open up.

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Vintage Tunina 2016. SAQ # 13475195, $99.75

IGT Venezia Giulia
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Malvasia, Ribolla Gialla and a local sweet grape variety
Very savoury with pleasant notes of hay, honey and a hint of green pepper. Rich and creamy with generous fruit in the mid palate adding an extra layer of pleasure. One of the greatest ever Italian whites.
Vintage Tunina 2012. ( 6 pack case-$114.50, private import)

IGT Venezia Giulia
Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Malvasia, Ribolla Gialla and a local sweet grape variety
Green pepper character is very apparent with notes of passion fruit, guava and a hint of mocha as well Very elegant, with a prosperous life ahead in the cellar.

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Capo Martino 2012 ( 6 pack case-$139.25, private import)

IGT Venezia Giulia
Mostly friulano with hints of Ribolla Gialla, Malvasia Istriana and Picolit
Yellow prunes, bone white fruit, passion fruit. Elegant with a beautiful mineral expression. I love that bitter herb so characteristic of friulano. Still has that crispy finale despite being 7 years old.

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Where dreams have no end 2016 ( 6 pack case-$87.25, private import)

IGT Venezia Giulia
97 % Chardonnay, 3% Secret family grape recipe
Very spicy with a hint of fennel and chicory. Quite buttery and oaky as well. On the palate, creamy. The Friulian version of a great Burgundy
Where dreams have no end 2013 ( 6 pack case-$111.50, private import)

IGT Venezia Giulia
97% Chardonnay, 3% Secret family grape recipe
Toasty oak with nice buttery and ripe tropical fruit undertones. On the mouth, gentle and quite caressing.Long flowery finale.

Valentine’s day wine pick

15 Friday Feb 2019

Posted by in Italy, Toscana

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I spent a very pleasant St Valentine’s day evening in the company of my wife and daughter. Being a weekday, we decided to stay home. To please the two femmes of my life, I cooked salmon fillets poached in butter with a spinach, mushroom and bacon saute.

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My wife is not a big wine drinker. She occasionally enjoy a glass of vino once in a while. Her favorites grapes are Pinot Noir and Gamay and she is not into too much into natural or biodynamic wines.

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Stefano at RAW Montreal 2018

I pushed my luck and decided to pair my dish with the rosato of Stefano Amerighi in Tuscany. Stefano has the best Syrah in Tuscany and even in Italy. This rosato is strictly made with Sangiovese and it was just so harmonious with the dish. It was richer and more complex than other rosatos from Tuscany. After some instropection on, it brought to mind a Tavel. It had a dense core of strawberry laced with raspberry, leather and a hint of spice. Structured with enough body to balance the richness of the dish.

My wife really enjoyed and I knew for sure because she had 2 full glasses which is rare. She kept saying it was so good. I was very happy and relieved at the same time. I was concerned whe would dislike the wine because it is biodynamic.

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This rosato is available privately by its importer: Le Vin dans Le Voiles. This agency has really a very interesting Italian wine portfolio. It retails for $29.84 and comes in 12 bottle case. Sadly, it is not available at the moment, so you better reserve with the agency for the next arrival.

Salute!!. What was your Valentine’s vino?

A tasting from Italy ( Part III)-Saffredi, a Supertuscan from the beaten path

27 Thursday Dec 2018

Posted by in Italy, Toscana, Tuscany

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The Italian trade tasting held this past October in Montreal  may be all forgotten to many of my wine colleagues but it stills resonates in my mind.

The first time that I tasted Saffredi was in the New Years Eve 2003 with my Italian family in Loreto Aprutino. In a context of a luxurious supper with many other bottles that included Querciabella, Massetto, Tenuta di Trinoro and a Petrus!!!, Saffredi stood out. Sadly, I cant remember the vintage in question  but I do remember how beautiful it paired with a black truffle risotto

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After Sassicaia, Saffredi is my favorite Supertuscan. This powerful Tuscan blend evoques in my mind a richer version of a Chateau Lafite. What it is that makes so special?. It is the proportion of Petit Verdot that complements the blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Petit Verdot is a grape native to the Médoc area, in France, where it is used for the production of Bordeaux, and is also common in California. In Italy, the Petit Verdot manages to express itself in a truly magical way in Tuscany, in the Maremma area of ​​Livorno, in the Grosseto and in the Agro Pontino in Lazio.

elisabetta

Saffredi is the grand vin of Fattoria Le Pupille, own and managed by Elisabetta Geppetti ( a.k.a the lady of Morellino) near the village of Magliano within the Morellino di Scansano DOC. From its first vintage in 1987, the wine was destined for greatness. Giacomo Tachis consulted on the project followed by Riccardo Cotarella and Christian Le Sommer, ex-technical director of Chateau Latour. However, the driving force of the wine has  always been the tenacious and passionate character of the Signora Gepetti.

Saffredi is crafted  from a tiny  six hectare vineyard planted to mostly Cabernet and Merlot, although the first vintages used Cabernet from vines grafted onto existing Sangiovese rootstocks in one of the family’s original vineyards.

With time, the property gradually expanded, and today has 75 hectares of vineyards across five sites. They lie at elevations between 200 and 280 metres, on mostly stony clay-limestone soils. Sea breezes from the shore, only 10 kilometres away,cold down the baking summer temperatures.

The 2016 vintage in Tuscany is similar to 2015 in terms of outstanding quality. Similar to Bordeaux, the 2016 vintage could well surpass the 2015.  It is often too easy  to compare vintages, yet 2016 is being compared to great vintages such as  2006, 2008 and 2010 – the new wave great classics.

The 2016 Saffredi blew my mind off at the Italian trade tasting. It had a glorious nose reminiscent of cassis, mint, black truffle and dry lavender. On the palate, it was quite opulent making me think of a Lafite with a Ferrari coat. The flavours were exquisite redolent of  savoury notes of tobacco, dark chocolate and coffee beans with sambuca. The finish was incredible long and harmonious much like Mahler Symphony 5

Saffredi is imported in Quebec by Montalvin. It is not very expensive retailing close to $100 per bottle, considering the much higher price of other Supertuscans. For more information on availability please contact the agent directly. I highly recccomend that you buy at least 6 bottles and let this wine unfold with time in the cellar.

Cheers!!