Category Archives: Italy

Valentine’s day wine pick

15 Friday Feb 2019

Posted by in Italy, Toscana

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

,

I spent a very pleasant St Valentine’s day evening in the company of my wife and daughter. Being a weekday, we decided to stay home. To please the two femmes of my life, I cooked salmon fillets poached in butter with a spinach, mushroom and bacon saute.

received_2232899050282277

My wife is not a big wine drinker. She occasionally enjoy a glass of vino once in a while. Her favorites grapes are Pinot Noir and Gamay and she is not into too much into natural or biodynamic wines.

img_20181101_130118

Stefano at RAW Montreal 2018

I pushed my luck and decided to pair my dish with the rosato of Stefano Amerighi in Tuscany. Stefano has the best Syrah in Tuscany and even in Italy. This rosato is strictly made with Sangiovese and it was just so harmonious with the dish. It was richer and more complex than other rosatos from Tuscany. After some instropection on, it brought to mind a Tavel. It had a dense core of strawberry laced with raspberry, leather and a hint of spice. Structured with enough body to balance the richness of the dish.

My wife really enjoyed and I knew for sure because she had 2 full glasses which is rare. She kept saying it was so good. I was very happy and relieved at the same time. I was concerned whe would dislike the wine because it is biodynamic.

received_422690928502821

This rosato is available privately by its importer: Le Vin dans Le Voiles. This agency has really a very interesting Italian wine portfolio. It retails for $29.84 and comes in 12 bottle case. Sadly, it is not available at the moment, so you better reserve with the agency for the next arrival.

Salute!!. What was your Valentine’s vino?

A tasting from Italy ( Part III)-Saffredi, a Supertuscan from the beaten path

27 Thursday Dec 2018

Posted by in Italy, Toscana, Tuscany

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

img_20181031_1216124578535611479897316.jpg

The Italian trade tasting held this past October in Montreal  may be all forgotten to many of my wine colleagues but it stills resonates in my mind.

The first time that I tasted Saffredi was in the New Years Eve 2003 with my Italian family in Loreto Aprutino. In a context of a luxurious supper with many other bottles that included Querciabella, Massetto, Tenuta di Trinoro and a Petrus!!!, Saffredi stood out. Sadly, I cant remember the vintage in question  but I do remember how beautiful it paired with a black truffle risotto

tartufo

After Sassicaia, Saffredi is my favorite Supertuscan. This powerful Tuscan blend evoques in my mind a richer version of a Chateau Lafite. What it is that makes so special?. It is the proportion of Petit Verdot that complements the blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot.

Petit Verdot is a grape native to the Médoc area, in France, where it is used for the production of Bordeaux, and is also common in California. In Italy, the Petit Verdot manages to express itself in a truly magical way in Tuscany, in the Maremma area of ​​Livorno, in the Grosseto and in the Agro Pontino in Lazio.

elisabetta

Saffredi is the grand vin of Fattoria Le Pupille, own and managed by Elisabetta Geppetti ( a.k.a the lady of Morellino) near the village of Magliano within the Morellino di Scansano DOC. From its first vintage in 1987, the wine was destined for greatness. Giacomo Tachis consulted on the project followed by Riccardo Cotarella and Christian Le Sommer, ex-technical director of Chateau Latour. However, the driving force of the wine has  always been the tenacious and passionate character of the Signora Gepetti.

Saffredi is crafted  from a tiny  six hectare vineyard planted to mostly Cabernet and Merlot, although the first vintages used Cabernet from vines grafted onto existing Sangiovese rootstocks in one of the family’s original vineyards.

With time, the property gradually expanded, and today has 75 hectares of vineyards across five sites. They lie at elevations between 200 and 280 metres, on mostly stony clay-limestone soils. Sea breezes from the shore, only 10 kilometres away,cold down the baking summer temperatures.

The 2016 vintage in Tuscany is similar to 2015 in terms of outstanding quality. Similar to Bordeaux, the 2016 vintage could well surpass the 2015.  It is often too easy  to compare vintages, yet 2016 is being compared to great vintages such as  2006, 2008 and 2010 – the new wave great classics.

The 2016 Saffredi blew my mind off at the Italian trade tasting. It had a glorious nose reminiscent of cassis, mint, black truffle and dry lavender. On the palate, it was quite opulent making me think of a Lafite with a Ferrari coat. The flavours were exquisite redolent of  savoury notes of tobacco, dark chocolate and coffee beans with sambuca. The finish was incredible long and harmonious much like Mahler Symphony 5

Saffredi is imported in Quebec by Montalvin. It is not very expensive retailing close to $100 per bottle, considering the much higher price of other Supertuscans. For more information on availability please contact the agent directly. I highly recccomend that you buy at least 6 bottles and let this wine unfold with time in the cellar.

Cheers!!

A Tasting of Wines from Italy ( Part II)-Pigato, the unsung heroe of Liguria

13 Tuesday Nov 2018

Posted by in Italy, Uncategorized

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, ,

I continue with the exploration of the hidden gems of the Italian Trade Tasting 2018 recently held in Montreal. If you are tuning for the first time please visit my previous post on Tenuta del Conte

The beauty of Italian wine lies on its diversity and that is something that must be cherished. Of course, there will always be the big icon wines: the Supertuscans, some primadonna Barolos and the occasional pseudo high end Chianti. Bought, drank and collected some of these wines. Basta!!. I don’t despise them and occasionally still capable to enjoy them. When I come to think about, it was my adolescence in Italian wine learning. Again, all part of the diversity but it is important to realize at some time you got to move on.

Can’t blame myself for enjoying artisanal Italian wines. Want to drink Cirò, Friulano, Aglianico from Basilicata and lots of natural wines.My latest discovery at the Italian trade tasting was the grape Pigato and the wines from Durin in Liguria.

The region of Liguria is better known for Cinque Terre and the San Remo music festival rather than its gastronomy and wine. For instance, Ligurians gave the world the gift of pesto, minestrone and focaccia now taken for granted in the Italian pantry. Less known is their confidential wine production based on a Greek descendant wine grape: Pigato.

Pigato is a white grape variety closely related to Vermentino. Its name comes from the Ligurian dialect “picau”, meaning speckled, by the presence of small dots (pigghe) on the grapes. It is native to the western region of Riviera di Ponente especially the regions of Genoa, Imperia and Savona. It is grown in Valle Arroscia and continues to the region of Pieve di Tenco where the provinces of Savona and Imperia converge.

Pigato is one of Liguria’s principal grapes. Its wine is part of the denomination Riviera Ligure di Ponente, a DOP from western Liguria and the region’s biggest.

What does it taste like? The Pigato wines from Durin were more aromatic and broader than a Vermentino with less acidity and a pleasant bitter mineral edge in the finale.

Durin, the savior of Pigato

Azienda Agricola Durin is a family estate going back over a hundred years founded by Giacomo Isidoro Basso. Today the estate is managed by  his grandson Antonio Basso and his wife Laura. The family winery grow Ligurian grapes but they are specialists in Pigato. They have  70 separate vineyards scattered around the village of Ortovero and cornered around the region’s terraced and steep hillsides.

img_20181031_141348

The Braie Durin was exhuberant with a fantastic nose redolent of chalk and lemon peel. This 100 % old vine Pigato from  the estate’s first vineyards. Hand-harvested. Destemmed; cold macerated for 24/48hours. Pressed then fermented on indigenous yeasts in temperature controlled tanks. Aged in tank for one year. It was juicy and charming with white fruit, dry flowers and mineral nuances. This is the ultimate Vongole pasta wine.

img_20181031_141408

I enjoyed as well the Geva Pigato with no sulfites added. It was fresher with shiny and bright notes of orchard and citrus fruit. Elegant and very floral. I would have it anytime with a pizza with rocket salad, tomato and garlic

img_20181108_091559

For the grand finale,  I had the sparkling Basura Obscura. A great experience. Blind tasted, I could be in Franciacorta or Champagne. Terrific notes of almond biscuit, dry fruits and citronella. Medium body with a fine bubble and an elegant finale. 100% Pigato,  it rests in the Toirano caves for 5 years and is aged in 30% second hand barrique. The sparkler stays on its lees minimum 18 months.

img_20181031_141400

Next post we will travel to Friuli to discuss the wines of Cantina Cormons. Stay tuned!!!

Favorite picks of A Tasting of Wines from Italy ( Part I)

07 Wednesday Nov 2018

Posted by in Italy

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

,

A tasting of wines from Italy is an annual event that occurs in October in four Canadian cities: Vancouver, Calgary, Toronto and Montreal. The event is organized by the Italian Trade Commission and is reserved for the Canadian wine trade industry ( sommeliers, journalists, restaurateurs and SAQ people).

On its 23rd edition the event is the most anticipated one from the all the wine fairs happening in Montreal during the fall. Quebec wine people love their Italian wine and cant get enough of vino italiano!!.

I try to attend every year. As always, it is a very comprehensive wine salon. For instance, on this edition there were more than 100 producers from 18 regions from Piedmont to Sardegna. It is an endeavor to try to taste everything. On this edition, I was looking for hidden treasures for my wine cultivation and I found them in Calabria and Liguria. In today post, I will talk about about Calabria and the next one on Liguria.

Tenuta del Conte

Tenuta del Conte was the only one producer to represent all Calabria and what an amazing job they did. In a tiny stand, I was greeted warmly by the passionate Mariangela Parrilla who is involved in winemaking for the family estate.

Tenuta del Conte is a natural wine producer…yes you heard it right!!, a beautiful gem in this wine fair full of giants. Tenuta del Conte joins the other favorite producers of mine in the Ciro appellation: A Vita and Cataldo Calabretta

DOC Cirò is the main appellation of Calabria, located in the east of the region around the municipalities of Cirò, Melissa, Crucoli and the seaside resort of Cirò Marina. Created in 1969, it includes white, rosé and red wines with the main grape varieties: greco bianco and gaglioppo.

The winery is situated in the classical zone of the Ciro appellation. Francisco Parrilla founded the winery in the 1960’s with indigenous varieties gaglioppo for the red and greco bianco for the whites. They vinify as natural as possible and rarely employ external chemical treatments.
Gaglioppo heritage is Greek, after that it spread to a vast area of the Adriatic coast that goes from the Marche to Calabria. In Calabria it has many alias such as Bivongi, Cirò, Donnici, Melissa, Isola di Capo Rizzuto, etc . The Cirò Bianco is obtained from the Greco Bianco vine, also brought by the Greeks, and enters the denominations Bivongi, Cirò, Terre di Cosenza, Greeks of Bianco and Melissa.

I tasted and drank three of their wines which I found quite fascinating. The Bianco was crafted from Greco grapes was warm and inviting. Lovely nose reminiscent of white apricots, honeysuckle and Jazmin leaves. Medium body and quite refreshing with a delicate saline note in the finale.

Dallaterra Gaglioppo was warm and inviting. Aromatic bringing to mind tobacco leaf, aromatic herbs and wild berries and a touch of malted barley. Earthy with a beautiful touch of austerity. I could not keep away my enthusiasm tasting this wine. Maria suggested that it would pair perfectly with pasta con sugo alla ‘nduja, a Calabrese specialty.

The Diversamente Greco Bianco spent 24 months in stainless steel something atypical for a white wine. This was my favourite wine with a profound minerality and deep floral flavours. A bit austere, it could further age for a few years.

I really enjoyed tasting this producer and hopefully will come back for next year edition of the tasting. At the moment, they are only represented in Ontario by Golden Valley Estate

2017, time to open the 2007’s in my cellar

11 Wednesday Jan 2017

Posted by in Italy, Toscana, Tuscany

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, ,

It is a tradition, that I try to keep more every January of a new year. I go to my cellar and uncork a bottle that has reached its 10th birthday. It might sound like a silly tradition, but my drinking window is around 10 years. It is kind of fun, sort like a wine inspection. Get to see how some bottles are doing in their evolutionary stage and see if they are approaching maturity or not. Of course, there are some exceptions for certain wines in my collection. For instance, I am not popping yet my 2006  Brunellos or my 2005 Bordeaux. For 2017, I am going to try for every month of the year to open a 2007. This way, I keep a bit of the excitement factor.

For January, I decided to open a bottle of one of my favorites Chianti Classico estates, Felsina. This is one of the greates estates in Italy and among the elite in Chianti.It is an heritage estate. In fact, just the origins of the name come from ancient Etruscan times meaning ” a halting place, where hospitality was offered.

Back in 2011, in my last trip to Italy, I had a chance to visit the estate while vacationing in the Chianti Classico region  with my wife. What I really love about Felsina is their classy and austere style. So much different of so many overextracted and jammy chiantis. I picked up a pair of their Rancia Riserva 2007 along with their most expensive cuvee, Fontalloro.

Felsina underground cellar

The estate is at the southern limit of the Chianti Classico appellation, in fact, half the estate lies in the Chianti Colli Senesi appellation. 90 hectares of the 500 hectare estate are planted to vineyards, the rest are left for olive groves and hunting wild boar. The estate is farmed organically with some biodynamic principles as well.

The Rancia vineyard is in the Chianti Classico, in the commune of Catelnuovo Berardenga, north east of Siena. It is situated at 400 metres above sea level, facing south. Soils are quartzitic blue-grey sandstone with layers of sand and calcareous albarese with pebbles and galestro. The soil characteristics impart that cool and austere  characteristic of the Rancia wine.

Any serious Italian wine lover, will have some bottles of Rancia in their cellar. Is a classic with a friendly price that can age at least for 2 decades.The 2011 retails at the SAQ (  12625411) for $49.00. In the LCBO ( 82362) , it is more expensive at $69.95  However, most of the time, is is snatched pretty fast by seasoned Italian collectors.  I got mine in Italy because in Quebec, Canada, it was pretty difficult to find. Here are my tasting notes:

Terrific. Aromas of espresso beans, licorice, cocoa, cassis and plenty of red fruitIn addition, tamed leather with a delicious animal nuance. On the mouth, elegant, racy and well structured. Very good acidity that will allow the wine to age gracefully. Secondary notes of development such as dead leaves and porcini mushrooms. Fine, grainy tannins. Still a baby and can age for a good two decades.

Its a great wine to have with roasts, specially rib eye or wild game. It will also be fantastic with homemade sausages. Recently, I was talking with my aunt Emma in Italy and she was preparing liver sausages and a side dish of chicory with with white beans. This is one of my favorite dishes from my region of Abruzzo. Only, if i was there…

This is a fantastic winter dish. Have it with crusty bread and good olive oil. Yumm. The simplicity of Italian food.

I would love to have your comments. Do you have any 07’s that you will open this year?

Montefalco, Italy’s Unknown Soldier

28 Monday Nov 2016

Posted by in Italy, Tasting Notes

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, ,

Image result for unknown soldier

Umbria, the lush region known as “Italy’s green heart,” is pumping with a quiet, authentic passion. Throughout the years, Italy’s central area has become famous for its leafy vineyards bursting with plump bluish-purple Sagrantino grapes and charming small towns scattered across the picturesque countryside.

Often overshadowed by the glamour of neighboring Tuscany, Umbria has remained a tranquil, laid-back area, with the walled medieval hamlet of Montefalco appealing to tourists seeking an idyllic Italian vacation among sleepy villages, gently sloping hills and acres of romantic vineyards. Located approximately 30 miles southeast of Perugia, Montefalco — often referred to as the “Balcony of Umbria” — is situated at 1,550 feet above sea level. A quaint town, it is adorned with narrow, sloping, cobblestone streets and Romanesque churches.

Sagrantino di Montefalco (or Montefalco Sagrantino — same thing) is 100% Sagrantino from low yield vineyards in and around the hilltop town of Montefalco. Sagrantino isn’t really grown outside the region so it’s a very special grape. The wines, by law, have to be aged for a year in oak barrels and 30 months total before release. With the Mediterranean influence and clay soils that fresh the roots of the vines during hot summers, the growing season for the grape is long, which means that in good years it has time to develop a balance of tannin, fruit flavor, and acidity.

If you decide to buy a bottle you have to look for the word Sagrantino.  Montefalco Rosso is the most common wine in the region and although it can be great, it’s only 10 – 15% Sagrantino — it’s mostly Sangiovese and can include other random red grapes too. Make sure you get Montefalco Sagrantino or Sagrantino di Montefalco because it’s then that you’ll get the black fruit, heavy tannin, earth and mouthwatering acid that I’m talking about.

20161102_132548.jpg

During the last Italian Trade Tasting held on Montreal on November 2nd, I had the chance to taste a mini selection of Montefalco wines under the auspices of the Consorzio Tutela Vini Montefalco along the company of Maruska Passeri, spokelady for the Consorzio. This was a rare opportunity as we seldom see Montefalco wines in Montreal, Quebec.

Image result for pasta with black truffles

Sagrantino is a food friendly wine that matches nicely with most Italian foods: Pizza, pasta, and anything with black truffles if budget permits. They have enough tannins to pair with wild game, braised meats, squab or pheasant, or even a nice steak or lamb. Of course aged cheeses go well too. Just remember to open the bottle and decant about an hour before serving. They go nicely with pastas or pizza. Add some truffles if available for a great match

Here are my tasting notes:

 

20161102_1310312.jpg.jpg

Montefalco Rosso DOC 2013. Tenuta di Colpetrone.

A blend of 70% Sangiovese, 15% Merlot and 15% Sagrantino. Intense ruby red with slight purple reflects. Very fruity nose reminiscent of raspberry, spices and vanilla bean. On the mouth, it is rich and smooth with slight tannins. Overall, very elegant with a long persistent aftertaste.

Montefalco Sagrantino Colpetrone DOCG 2010. Tenuta di Colpetrone

On the nose, aromas of  strawberries and nuts with lots of shaved dark chocolate. On the palate, earthy with dark fruit flavours and a earthy character. Lots of gritty tannins that will need a few years on the cellar.

Colpetrone Gold Montefalco Rosso 2007. Tenuta di Colpetrone

A grand red wine, powerful, concentrated and long. Striking deep ruby red with intense and ample perfume of red fruit and fine nuances of spices and vanilla. Striking with a incredible tannic concentration despite being almost 10 years old.

20161102_132612.jpg

Perticaia Montefalco Rosso 2013.

This  rosso was fresh with a taste of wild ripe red berries and  flavors of wild strawberries, with  lingering notes of blueberries. The mild tannins make it a great wine to pair with food. It can be enjoyed right away or laid down in the cellar for up to five years

Perticaia Montefalco Sagrantino 2012

Intense and corpulent with aromas that bring to mind, strawberry and ginger .On the mouth, tannic and bright and very perfumed.

20161102_132604.jpg

Azienda Agricola Scacciadiavoli Montefalco Rosso 2013

On the nose, it smells like black cherry with spice, cola, licorice and dried herbs. Complex ,  so give your glass a good swirl to really enjoy this wine.It even  gets better as the wine gets more air. Tasting reveals a wonderful balance between  tart dark fruit and oak along with a polished  mouthfeel displaying soft yet grippy tannins. It ends with a fine earthy finale and more luscious tart fruit that lingers for a long time. An encounter with a magnificent wine.

20161102_132853.jpg

Tenuta Bellafonte Collenottolo 2011

Collenottolo, named for the hill where the grapes are grown, is an elegant and refined interpretation of the unique character and natural exuberance of the Sagrantino grape. The bouquet develops gradually and  is intense with notes of blackberries and spiced blueberries.Elegant with a great energy and structure. Streamlined, powerful and fresh.

20161102_132620.jpg

Cantina Le Cimate Montefalco Rosso 2011.

Dark ruby color, alluring  nose with hints of plum and cherry. Soft in the mouth with elegant tannins. Flavors bringing to mind blackberry, cinnamon and star anise.

Cantina Le Cimate Sagrantino di Montefalco 2011.

Rich in blackberry and licorice and exploding with herbal and animal nuances. Structured with ample tannins. Excellent lenght with a long aftertaste.

 

Aglianico del Vulture: Italy’s premier Volcanic wine

17 Monday Oct 2016

Posted by in Italy

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, ,

 

Grotta Della Civita in Matera. Source:messynessychic.com

 

South of Rome, at the southern end of Italy, in the arch of the boot, is the region of Basilicata. This picturesque region with its picturesque cave houses and rock cut fresco churches is the last bastion of Italian winemaking. Although its wine traditions predate back to the ancient Greeks, Basilicata still remains a very undiscovered region.

 

Image result for aglianico del vulture

Aglianico Vines

 

Basilicata produces one of Italy’s best red wines-Aglianico del Vulture. Aglianico resembles Nebbiolo, the renowned grape of famous Barolo and Barbaresco wines in Piedmont. Not only are both late-ripening varieties, and capable of giving good results in very limited areas, but both are also tannic, acidic specimens which typically demand many years before their wines are approachable and mature enough to enjoy. It fact, Aglianico has been dubbed as the Barolo of the South.

 

Image result for mastroberardino

The late Antonio Mastroberardino

 

The recent rise of Aglianico occurred in pinpoint in different parts of southern Italy, where the Mastroberardino family of Avellino deserves much credit for the grape’s commercial success. Those wine lovers who have heard of Aglianico usually know it as the variety that makes Taurasi, Campania’s most famous red wine.

Aglianico two greatest expressions are Aglianico del Vulture in Basilicata and Taurasi in neighbor Campania. It’s also grown in Molise, and has a growing presence in Puglia. But it only shines in places with volcanic soils

 

Image result for monte vulture

Monte Vulture

Monte Vulture is in northwest Basilicata.The eastern slopes of the dormant volcano, including the villages of Rionero, Barile and Melfi are where most of the Aglianico vineyards are concentrated. The soil, composed mostly of deposits from the ancient lava flows gives mineral complexity to the wines. In addition, the altitude of the vines and soil drainage imparts freshness to them.

 

Basilicata’s Aglianico del Vulture appellation was established in 1971 and require the wine to be made from 100% Aglianico grapes. The dry table wines are made in three styles: the regular bottling aged for 12 months, the Vecchio for 36 months, and the longer Riserva which is aged for 60 months before being released.

For a long time, Donato D’Angelo and Paternoster have the reference producers of Aglianico del Vulture appellation. However, there have been signs of new life. Azienda Agricola Carmelengo was founded by architect Antonio Cascarano in the early 2000’s. He farms organically, old Aglianico vines, on the village of Rapolla in the eastern part of Vulture. Antonio favours the natural style of winemaking yielding elegant and flavorful renditions of Aglianico.

 

Image result for azienda agricola camerlengo

Antonio Cascarano, the founder of Carmelengo.

 

Carmelengo has two Aglianico cuvees, Antelio and Carmelengo. Antelio, made with young Aglianico vines has textbook aromas of the variety: red fruit, dried flowers, firepit and leather. In contrast Carmelengo, made with old vines, display notes of cocoa, licorice, tobacco and red cherry jam. It is polished with silky but structured tannins. It can age for decades as most Aglianicos should do.

 

Image result for grifalco

Fabrizio Piccin from Grifalco

 

Another newcomer to the Basilicata wine scene is Grifalco. Owned by the Piccin family, who were originally wine producers in Tuscany but decided that Basilicata in particular, Vulture was more promising in make great wine. Gricos, they everyday wine is made with young Aglianico vines ( 15 years old) and aged in large oak barrels. Ample and fruity but nonetheless meaty and substantial. On the other hand, Grifalco, spends some time and oak and comes from older vines of Aglianico. Deeper than the Gricos, it is spicy with a red and herbs taste profile that is typical of the region. Like Cascarano, Grifalco is a natural style winemaker.

Basilicata also a tiny quantity of white wine. Malvasia and Moscato are widely planted in the region but there is no appellation for them. Generally, wines made from these grapes are simple vini da tavola and sold locally. They either have been very sweet or sparkling with variable quality. However, there are exceptions to the rule. Carmelengo makes a complex orange style wine made with mostly Malvasia, Fiano and other local varieties. There is also the Maschitano bianco, a refreshing and floral moscato bottling made by producer Musto Carmelitano.

 

Image result for burrata

Burrata Cheese.

Like its neighbors Puglia and Calabria, Basilicata is on the beaten track for tourists. But like any region of Italy, there are little country restaurants that impress the senses with their local produce. Within Basilicata’s wine country, the one town with touristic interest is Melfi, which was the first town that the Normans founded when they invaded the Italian south. At the town borders, there is a famous restaurant called Novecento, where you can taste the Lucanica sausage and burrata ( a type of mozzarella filled with milk curd that spills like an egg yolk when cut open).

 

 

Castello del Terricio Tassinaia 2006

21 Wednesday Sep 2016

Posted by in Italy, Uncategorized

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, ,

Tasted from my cellar stash:

Castello del Terricio Tassinaia 2006

An equal blend Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from sandy and stony  soils benefiting from the moderate climate of Bolgheri. Castello del Terricio wines are  made by famous consultant oenologist Carlo Ferrini and Tassinaia a modest super Tuscan that can age for a long time.  You can get for around $30 instead of more than $100 for the famous big brother Lupicaia.

Gorgeous nose. Aromas of ripe cassis, brown sugar with hints of gauloises cigarrete tobacco and prunes in conserve. In addition, lovely notes of graphite. In the mouth, full body. Silky on the mid palate with complex retronasal flavors that bring to mind green pepper jelly, cocoa with caramelized coffee bean. Long and harmonious in the mouth. A Supertuscan that stand the test of time and it still has some mileage left. 95\100

Serious Amarones

08 Thursday Sep 2016

Posted by in Italy, Tasting Notes, Veneto

≈ Leave a comment

Tags

, ,

As we approach the fall season, I cannot stop thinking of an all time  Italian favorite wine for this fresh and cool time of the year, Amarone.

Amarone  della Valpolicella is made to be guzzled  down with gusto sitting by the fire with a piece of hard cheese such as Parmigiano Reggiano or Gorgonzola. It also is great with dark chocolate. Made by the Appasimento method, a technique used in the Veneto to concentrate flavors and aromas in wine. Amarone has a long history dating back to ancient roman times and was created by accident. It was a variation of Recioto, a sweet red wine of the region.

This big boy from Veneto is made mainly by local varieties that include Corvina, Rondinella, Molinara. It can also include other indigenous varieties such as Croatina, Negrara and Oseletta. The end result is a percentage mix of the varieties. The production techniques as mentioned by the Consorzio Tutela Vini Valpolicella are as follows:

Corvina (from 45 to 95%), nevertheless the presence of Corvinone is allowed to the extent of 50% in substitution of the same percentage of Corvina and Rondinella from 5 to 30%.

Non aromatic red-berried varieties recommended and allowed to be cultivated in the province of Verona can contribute to the blend to the extent of 15% of a Doc. A maximum of 25% in total in the winemaking can be represented by grapes coming from the following grapevines:

non aromatic, red-berried varieties allowed to the cultivation in the province of Verona to a maximum extent of 15%, with a maximum limit of 10% for every single variety used

red-berried Italian varieties which have been classified as native according to the provisions of law nr..82/06, art. 2, and are allowed to be cultivated in the Province of Verona, for the remaining total amount of 10%”.

This early summer, the Consorzio Tutela Vini Valpolicella stopped in Montreal  to present some its member wine. A few of them striked my attention. Although, there was more Valpolicella Ripasso than Amarone.

20160615_161624.jpg

A new producer brainchild of Giulia and Riccardo Cavedini. They are located in Marcellise, a satellite of the town San Martino Buon Albergo, situated east of Verona. They make an Valpolicella Superiore, the Amarone and a Cabernet Sauvignon.  The estate comprises 10 ha of vineyards in the hills of Marcellise. Ricardo runs the domain and take care of the vineyards while Giulia, her daughter takes care of the commercial part.

Azienda Agricola Corte Scaletta Amarone Della Valpolicella DOCG 2011

( Corvina 40%, Corvinone 30%, Rondinella)

On the nose, a remarkable palette of nuances: leather, paprika with smoke and dry black fruits. On the mouth, rich and opulent with outstanding finesse and elegance. Complex retronasal flavors that bring to mind chinese ink , cocoa and cofee. Round tannins complement the long and classy finale. Fabolous. An amazing wine with many years ahead of evolution. 95\100

20160615_162852.jpg

I also tasted the wines of Cantina Tinazzi, part of the group Tinazzi. They produce both wine in the Veneto and Puglia. A Venetian family wine business with operations in Puglia as well.

Amarone della Valpolicella Selezione di Famiglia 2012.

Corvina 70%, Corvinone 20%, Rondinella 10%

On the nose, jammy black fruits with lots of black peppercorn character. Full body, austere and powerful with fine but sharp tannins. Lots of flavors on the palate that brings to mind dry brown earth, cocoa with indian spices. Very long in the mouth. Will keep for two or three decades easily. 92/100
La Bastia Amarone della Valpolicella 2012.

Corvina 60%, Corvinone 20%, Rondinella 15%, Molinara 5%
Black fruit jam on the nose with hints of balsamic condimento, raspberry liquor and dark chocolate. Polished and generous on the palate, with suave but thick tannins. Modern and sensual. 90/100

Unlucky for me, I cannot get this wines in the province of Quebec, so it was a real treat to taste them. But whenever you are, if you have a chance, grab them for your fall stash. 

Sassicaia, The Original Supertuscan

30 Saturday Jul 2016

Posted by in Italy, Tasting Notes, Toscana, Tuscany

≈ 2 Comments

Tags

, ,

My love affair with Sassicaia, started in my early twenties. My introduction with Supertuscans was with this bottle and i feel in love right away.
The vintage that i tried was 1998. A great year for Sassicaia and Bolgheri. Compared with Ornellaia, I prefer it because of its Bordeaux Graves character. No doubt, Ornellaia is a great wine but it could be a bit flashy or flamboyant. To put in other words, it is like Valentino versus Versace.

As the years passed, i had the chance to taste other vintages. My favorite include 2001, 2004 and 2008. All those three have long persistance, marvelous fruit and structure. These traits are what makes Sassicaia a great wine.

The 2010 vintage was a bit like the 2001. It was uneven season with poor weather during flowering and a bit of rain during harvest in September. The blend has always been 85% Cabernet Sauvignon and 15% Cabernet Franc.

For me drinking a bottle of Sassicaia, it is always a grand affair. My special occasion was the visit of my aunt Giuseppina from Venezuela. I decided to pull a bottle of the 2010 from my cellar to see how it was doing:

Tenuta San Guido Sassicaia. SAQ # 743393. LCBO Vintages #480533. The 2012 vintage retails in the Canadian provinces of Quebec for $183.50 CAD and $199.95 CAD in Ontario

Aromas of green peppercorns sauce with cigar box aromas. In addition, ripe cassis with blackcurrant and cocoa. On the mouth, structured , racy and very long. Polished and sweet tannins. Retronasal flavors bringing to mind earth, mineral and animal nuances bringing to mind wild boar.  Oak is very well integrated. Overall, it is a stunning wine. In the spirit of Graves, Bordeaux but with Tuscan roots. If you can, leave it on the cellar for another 7-10 years. 95/100

20160723_190156.jpg

We had this wonderful bottle with some good steak such as Sirloin and Filet Mignon on the BBQ cooked medium rare. When I am pairing wine of this caliber, I like to my simple food so the wine can shine. The match was perfect, as the wine’s tannins picking up the blood of the steak and the combination of flavors yielding a very complex taste. But what was really stunning, is how the texture and lenght of the wine changed. Morsel of steak and wine sip, it was an infinite experience.

20160723_190207.jpg

Ciao and until next time.