Category Archives: France

I am an agent of change

29 Monday Jul 2019

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In my teenage years, I had left wing political inclinations. Growing up in Venezuela, it became almost an ardent religious belief that I could change everything that was wrong in Venezuelan society. This was the 90’s in Latin America and it was in fashion to listen Fito Paez, Soda Stereo, Enanitos Verdes and Soda Stereo. Feeling nostalgic now, I remember with candor how me and my friends used to drink cheap rhum and read passages of Che Guevara:The Motorcycle Diaries.

As I grew older and entered young adulthood, this romantic idealism faded away. The reality of the world was based on money and social status. My grandfather used to tell me: You know how to change an Italian communist?. Give him a good job, nice clothes, a car and sexy woman. Honestly, I felt that alone could not fight the whole system and became part of the establishment….until not long ago when I left it with flying colours

Rebel once, rebel forever. I guess that this idealism is still with me today..it never went away. I do a job that I love, live a modest life and drink a fair amount of natural wine.

My wife once asked me: So if you like natural wine, are you against those that dont drink natural wine?. It’s not about a dogma or a principle war, its about a choice that I make.I favor natural, biological and biodynamic wines because they are good for me and strongly believe that I make a contribution to preserving the planet. I sttill review conventional or classical wines. Absotutely, I will favor those with the minimum footprint on the planet

My stand with natural wine makes me an agent of positive change. The bottles that I buy, my reviews and the impressions all help to protect the real culture of wine. Actually, I am voting with my buying dollar for a better and healthier wine world.

The greatest gift that natural wine has given me, it’s a voice to express my solidarity with those vignerons that craft beautiful bottles. A long time ago, someone told me that drinking wine is an act of humility and intimacy. The act of drinking a real wine is to peek into a secret window inside the mind the secret world of a winemaker.

I am a rebel at heart for the love of wine

Domaine La Grande Colline-Hirotake-Ooka

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Le Canon 2015

One of the most emblematic wines that I have ever tried in the past years came from this man: Hirotake Ooka. It sounds odd that a Japanese guy makes natural wine in the Rhone but it is one of the weird beautiful things of life. The wines of Hirotake are available in Quebec, Canada via Primavin.

Le Canon is a tasty blend of Grenache and Syrah. It has delicious taste of leafy blackfruit with a touch of animal funk and spice. Its spritzy in the palate and it keeps really well the next day if you dont finish the bottle. The wine is born out of a soil of mica and granite and the vines have an average age of 30 years young. No oak in this wine, just steel tank. Price is under $30 per bottle and it comes in a case of 12. This bottle comes from my private collection.

I am looking foward to try its Cornas, once it becomes available via Primavin.

 

Sebastien Riffault-Les Quarterons 2016

22 Monday Jul 2019

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This is the post of a modest wine lover who never was into Sancerre until the day he had a glass of Riffault

Generally speaking, Sancerre like Chablis are not wines that appeal to me. I can appreciate but they are very impersonal to me. They could be cold antipathic wines. I guess that I was drinking the wrong wines for many years. Not even a Sancerre from Mellot, a top producer in the appellation made my skin hair rise like the bottle of Riffault.

That’s the beauty of natural well made wine. It can break dogmas and make you see wine in a completely different optic.

They say that this way the way vignerons used to make Sancerre in the past. This wine is unique in all senses and reflect the strong opinions of the winemaker.

The nose is quite esoteric for the “real” Sancerres tasted and drank in the past. The bouquet had an enchanting taste reminiscent of passion fruit, mango with a touch of pineapple peel and even tamarind. In the palate, so fresh and delicious. It has a voloptous structure with an incredible mineral lingering finale. A beautiful wine that will go well with tuna or scallops or…

a simple meal of roasted chicken with pesto pasta and green beans.

I grabbed mine from a friend but you can get it through Vini-Vins if you live in Quebec. It retails for around $36. Highly Reccomend buy!!

The perfect Rhone white blend for your lobster

21 Tuesday May 2019

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Château Pesquié Terrasses blanc 2017. SAQ #  13945265, $19.05

With Lobster season in full swing, here is the perfect opportunity to explore the white side of the Rhone Valley wines.

The Chaudière family has managed the vineyards of this estate for three generations. Only organic treatments and composts are used for the grapes. Weed management  is done by working  the soil, and harvesting is exclusively manual. There are three main terroirs on the property: rocky limestone clay, red clay and loamy gray clay. They grow Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault, Mourvedre, Roussanne, Clairette, Viognier, Chardonnay and Muscat

A sure  solid value in the SAQ, the terrases  blanc from Pesquié is an bright, aromatic blend of Viognier, Rousanne and Clairette. Hailing from Mont Ventoux, this white will seduce you with its bright undertones of verbena, lemon meyer, apricot and honey. Fresh and round with a creamy mouthfeel and a smooth acidity, it is perfectly suited for your lobster weekday meals, specially if they are grilled!!

Disclaimer: Sample provided by the agent for review purposes

 

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Bon appetit!!

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Source: Food Republic

Two “Blue Chip” roses for Spring celebrating

01 Monday Apr 2019

Posted by in France, Rhone, Tasting Notes

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In the investment world, Blue Chip companies are the captains of their industry. These are safe and profitable enterprises that can weather adverse economic conditions and still deliver a consistent return on investment.

How does this apply to wine?. A wine producer or estate must be able to deliver a consistent and high quality product vintage after vintage. It is understandable that a wine will reflect the character of its vintage but the winemaker must be able to navigate adverse conditions and deliver a sound product. After all, in a pragmatic perspective, wine is just an economic commodity with an opportunity cost.

Who are the blue chips estates of wine?. These are the grand chateaux of France, the famous Tuscan or Spanish estates to mention a few. What do they have in common?. These producers have an established track record of consistency in wine production.

This concept can also be micro applied as well not only to the most famous name but also the small artisanal producer. What’s important to remember is result consistency.

Bottom line: treat your wine drinking like your money investing strategy and you won’t be disappointed.

Whispering Angel is the successful commercial brand of this famous Provence rose from Caves D’Esclans by Sacha Lichine. Bordelais by origin, Sacha has worked in every aspect of the wine industry. The notoriety of this wine can be attributed not only from its magnificent terroir and winemaking but as well to the business acumen of Monsieur Lichine. Sacha’s American business education and broad International wine industry experience has served me strategically well to promote his wine and overall Provence rose wine drinking.

Whispering Angel sells in more than 100 countries worldwide and has 20% market share just in the U.S wine market. It’s success can be attributed because it is well perceived among all the stakeholders of the wine industry: From the millennial wine critic to the most demanding wine critic.

This is a majority blend of Grenache, Rolle, Cinsault, Syrah and Tibouren. Pretty nose of cantaloupe, white peonies with a very refreshing acidity. Quite an appetizing wine that would be awesome with grilled seafood. At the SAQ for $26.90 ( 11416984)   for the 2018

Another all time favorite rose of mine is Domaine de la Mordoree Tavel 2017. Tavel is the only appellation in the Rhone Valley that strictly produces rose wine. Tavel roses have more weight and structure than your standard French rose wine. The aromas are spicier with darker fruit undertones, kind of like walking the fine line towards a light red wine.

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Domaine de la Mordoree is the project of father and son Francis and Christophe Delorme. Its  vineyard holdings group together 50 ha in 8 municipalities across 38 parcels in the Rhone Valley. In 30 years, Francis Delorme elevated this domaine and  consequently the appellation to one of the best of the Rhone Valley and the world.

Sadly Christophe passed away in 2015 but his work legacy continue in the hands of her wife and daughter Madeleine and Ambre. This domaine is in  totality biological with a biodynamic approach.

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Spaghetti with fresh tomato sauce and tuna rio mare

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2 Pizzas: tomato meat sauce and rapini with mushrooms

La Dame Rousse is a mix of Grenache 60 % Cinsault 10% Syrah 10 % Mourvèdre
10% Clairette 5% Bourboulenc 5%. The vineyards are relatively old ( 40 years) and they grow in a mix of terroir that include rocky and sandy soils

Very pleasant on the nose with floral aromas reminiscent of potpourri, watermelon with a hint of violets and strawberry ganache. Dry and structured on the palate with a perfect tension between acidity and ripe fruit. Smoky finale.

One of the few roses that  can stand up to savoury flavors of tomato based pastas and pizzas. The 2017 retails at the SAQ for $31.25 ( 12376881). It is a must buy for your upcoming BBQ’s as well.

asparagus barbecue cuisine delicious

Grilled pork tenderloin with asparagus

Disclaimer: The above wines were tasted at my local SAQ outlet in Repentigny, Quebec. The author does not have any commercial relationship with the importers and these were not samples. 

Celebrating Spring with Domaine Mosse

19 Tuesday Mar 2019

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Tomorrow marks the first day of Spring and what better way to celebrate it with a glass of sparkling wine. A good glasss of bubbly is festive but not all sparkling wine is made equal. I adore to drink sparkling while BBQ as an aperitivo or if am sitting in my terrace enjoying a smoke

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Not too long ago I share with  a friend a magnum of Domaine Mosse Moussamoussettes.  It happens often among wine buddies that we buy a wine case and split it with other wine lovers.

Domaine Mosse is a leading natural wine  producer from the Loire of delicious wines particularly those made with Chenin Blanc. This producer have a cult following among natural wine lovers in Montreal. Cant wait to try their other wines including the magic of juju

This pet nat rosé is  made by onefrom Gamay and Grolleau Gris.  It is juicy and brisk, flavors of baked peaches, herbs and a touch of watermelon and red oranges.  A bit funky as well in a good way. Refreshing, fruity. Delightful. Incredible drinkability and dangerous too!!!. A great food pairing wine with cheese or baked omelette!!!

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If you live in Quebec, you can get it privately via its importer Le Vin Dans Le Voiles. 

The standard bottle (750 m) will set you for $38.52 for a 12 bottle case. It is available at the moment. The magnum will be available as of June and it trades for $75.88 ( 6 bottle case)

Highly reccomend it and a must try to explore a natural alternative style of sparkling wine.

Chartier Créateur d’Harmonies Fronsac 2015

14 Thursday Mar 2019

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I love good Bordeaux but it has gotten a bit expensive for my wallet. So when I hear, under $20 and the reputation of an excellent vintage for Bordeaux is music for ears. Add to this, a famous name behind the bottle and I got myself a symphony.

Chartier is a well know personality in the world wine industry. Either you love or hate it, it is up to you. He was best world sommelier ( Grand Prix Sopexa 1994) and has published more than 24 books since 1996. Now he makes terrific wines. His critics say he is a sold out, making commercial wines. I totally disagree, he is a pragmatic businessman making outstanding value wines.

Since 2011 he has been on the other side of the fence with his French and Spanish wine project. He is a producteur négociant-éleveur and his wine get better and better with each vintage. It success can be attributed to of course his experience but also his collaboration with Bordeaux winemaker Pascal Chatonnet, his partner in the enterprise.

Fronsac is a “satellite” appellations of Bordeaux that includes Côtes de Castillon, Lalande de Pomerol, Fronsac, Canon Fronsac, Bordeaux Superieur, Entre Deux Mers and Côtes de Bordeaux and it shined on the 2015 vintage.

In recent years Fronsac has been enjoying great critical acclaim for high quality Merlot driven wines made from top notch clay and limestone terroirs.

The 2015 vintage is terrific displaying ripe but not overly concentrated notes of morello cherry, raspberry with leafy blackcurrants and cedar. On the palate, it is round with sweet mouth coating tannins. The wine spent mostly 14 months in one and two years old barrique which gives the wine a creamy and satiny texture with not too much wood retronasal flavors. It is racy and quite long in the mouth. If you have some in your cellar, hold to it for another 5 years and you will be pleasantly surprised. If you don’t, get yourself a case and stash it away. The 2015 currently retails at the SAQ ( 12068070 ). One of the best Bordeaux available at the SAQ for under $20. ( $18.05)

 

Domaine Turner Pageot La Rupture 2015

25 Monday Feb 2019

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By the way…as I am writing these lines, I am listening to Maria Callas

Sauvignon Blanc wines are not very common in Southern France. Bordeaux and Loire, yes but not in a place like Gabian in Languedoc.

I first heard about Domaine Turner Pageot while taking a sommelier course at the ITHQ. Luckily for me Emmanuel Pageot came to visit us one evening  and explain to us the students his vision of Biodynamics in the Languedoc Terroir. Since then I became hooked to the domaine and biodynamic wines in general.

L’Existence des Choix

In every bottle of Turner Pageot we can find the above small heading which translated in English means, the existence of Choice. You can make cold and soulless wines or wines full of life. In every bottle of Turner Pageot, wherever is Le Blanc, 48h, Le Rouge, La Rupture, Carmina Major, B 815, G 230 or Les Choix, you can taste a piece of authencity which is the trademark of the artist that communicates the lifeforce of the terroir. This is what you will find in Turner Pageot.

La Rupture 2015 ( around $33.69. Six pack case, Private Import-Raisonnance agence. Florian Maziere. florian@raisonnance.net)

The ‘rupture’ referred to in the name is with standard winemaking, as 20% of this full-bodied southern French white has macerated on its skins during fermentation, like red wine.

A Sauvignon Blanc unique ( because it does not taste like Sauvignon at all) with sunny accents. Lovely nose reminiscent of anis with complex floral nuances such as white rose and vanilla as well. With some aeration, citric fruit aromas emerges such as grapefruit peel, lime confit lemons and a lovely delicate note of roasted sesame seeds. Dry and quite saline in the palate, very pleasant.  Round and quite digest like the French would say. A captivating perfumed  finale bringing to mind burning hay and nectarine. Unique with a distinctive personality. Perfectly made. A great wine experience, but must important that it feels alive.

I found this video that describes in more depth the philosophy of the wines of the domain:

 

By the way, Emmanuel Pageot will be in Montreal this week ( next Wednesday and Thursday at Chez Victoire   presenting his wines as a part of the gastronomical suppers organized for the Montreal Lumiere Festival. There might be some place left but if you wish you to attend please contact the restaurant directly.

Cheers!!!

Que seras, mi Syrah!!

18 Monday Feb 2019

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My love affair with French Syrah goes back to my early years of wine drinking. The bottle that started my sentimental affair was a Chave Hermitage Rouge 1998. It was seduction at the first sip with its occult raspberry and blackberry undertones but what really felt like lovemaking was the sanguine and animal quality that only Northern Rhone Syrah can give.

Bordeaux and Burgundy are cold to me. Every time that I drink a super Rhone syrah, I always get that feeling that the wine is stripping me slowly. The foremother of my  wine passion, Christine  always use to tell me that eventually all wine roads lead to Syrah. There is something elusive and highly passionate about drinking a St-Joseph, Crozes or Cote Rotie.

In a perfect world, I will drink Hermitage on a daily basis. However, the most famous cru of the Northern Rhone could be like a high maintenance girlfriend. It is nice to have it from time to time but it could burn you if you have it often. Oh yes, passions can kill you.

Here are three lovely examples of Northern Rhone Syrah that you can find in the Quebec market. They are nicely enjoyable and wont kill you like the black spider. Enjoy. Whats the perfect food match of Northern Rhone Syrah?. It is grilled meat. So take out the snow from your BBQ and get grilling.

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Domaine Grangier Reflets de Syrah 2016. SAQ # 13113750, $31.25

Notes of spearmint, licorice with violets and fragrant summer blackberries and a hint of horsesaddle, cocoa as well.  On the mouth, delicious and dangerously fruity. Long and round in the palate, it is a charmer with a rich yet balanced finale.  Very smooth with fine cashmere tannins. Delicate flavours of korean BBQ and anis complement uplift this beautiful St-Joseph.

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Domaine Monier Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes Syrah 2016. Private Import ( Les Vins Dame-Jeanne, $30.87, Six bottle case)

A trascendental nose. It goes beyond the usual suspect aromas of dark blue fruits. Taking it to another level, the word complexity for an entry level Northern Rhone Syrah. Aromas of olive tapenade, roasted seaweed with an intense nose of iron verging towards dry blood. Yes, it has an electric charge of electric  blueberry nuances. Structured and opulent on the palate, yet so easy to drink with those seducing tannins. Long and meaty finale.

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Maison les Alexandrins par Nicolas Perrin Crozes-Hermitage 2015. SAQ # 12661826, $29.10

Dark fruits with that sensational dusty minerality of the appellation. With some aeration in the glass a bit of black smoke and blueberry character on the glass as well. On the mouth, dense and finely concentrated with muscular tannins.

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Cheers my dear readers!!!

 

 

A Gewürztraminer that you won’t forget

22 Thursday Nov 2018

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Gewürztraminer is one of the grapes that I have a bit of difficulty with it. It can be too much aromatic with heady scents of rose water and lychee which poses a bit of a challenge in my kitchen. It can go from dry to sweet depending on the producer and region. It does not go well with Southern Italian or Latin American cuisine but it is wonderful with Asian cuisine, specially Thai. Next time you order takeout or visit a BYOB Thai resto, consider Gewürztraminer

While doing an errand at my local SAQ in Repentigny, I spotted the Gewurztraminer Herrenweg De Turckheim 2012 ( SAQ # 11063904, $38.75) from Domaine Zind-Humbrecht. For many years, I have enjoyed the vibrant, complex and above all mystical wines of this mythical Alsatian producer.

The signature of each Zind-Humbrecht wine is its heightened sense of terroir: the expression of the vineyard is always clear and well defined.

Zind-Humbrecht is one of the founding members of the association La Renaissance des Appellations. This association was created in 2001 with the purpose of bringing together producers who shared the vision of Biodynamics and terroir. A few years back, they came to Montreal and did a wine fair. This was my introduction to Biodynamics. After that event, my approach to wine change completely. At the fair, I bought this little DVD. It gives you an introduction to Biodynamic agriculture

Tasting note:

By virtue, the Herrenweg vineyard in Turckheim should be a Grand Cru. However under the direction of Zind-Humbrecht it manifest like one.

The Herrenweg, or “road of the gentlemen,” Vineyard takes it’s name for the location along the ancient roman way that linked Colmar to the passage through the Vosges Mountains. Its terroir is a composition of fine sand, silt and large pebbles which provide an excellent draining capacity and it is blessed with a warm climate that gives an aromatic intensity to the wines. The age of the vines (averaging 46 years) is crucial as deeper roots are less impqctee by poor weather and they can extract more minerality from the soil.

Powerful and structured reminiscent of nutmeg and cloves followed by streamlined notes of white peaches and vanilla bean. With aeration, aromas of honey and middle eastern desserts emerge. Fresh and creamy in the midpalate with a floral finale. Long aftertaste of heat ( hot peppers) and mineral dust.

What would I pair this wine with it?. Simply a Panang curry dish with chicken, tofu and shrimp.

Silène Crozes Hermitage 2016

19 Wednesday Sep 2018

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Slowly but surely the 2016 vintage from the Northern Rhone Valley is making its way to our Canadian shores. Although not as rich as the 2015, the current offering is all about freshness and elegance.

J.L Chave is a name that does not need introductions here. Everybody that knows a thing or two about fine French wine has heard about him. I am certainly familiar with his wines since my introduction to Hermitage was with him. Wine growers in the northern Rhône since 1491, the Chave family (currently represented by Gérard and son Jean-Louis) represents 16 generations of a committed family saga to the production of some of the finest Syrah, Marsanne, and Roussanne wines on this world

What some winelovers may not know is that the family has a negociant wine business on the ise. For a modest price, you can taste the savoir-faire of the family.

“Silène” Crozes-Hermitage is 50% family Syrah and 50% purchased. Like all things Chave, the quality bar is high even at the entry level.

It is often said that Crozes-Hermitage is a meager expression of Hermitage but there is nothing poor about this wine. While the 2015 was richer and decadent with the 2016, Silène returns to the classic character of the appellation.

Bright aromas of anis, dill with violet and lavender character. Classical Northern Rhone Syrah flavours of bacon, cherry and raspberry.Polished with a juicy acidity and a long lingering finale.

I highly recommend to buy this wine. Available at the SAQ (12950281) for $31.50.