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La mia passione per il vino

~ Wine reviews and musings about art and life

La mia passione per il vino

Category Archives: France

An ode for Cinsault

26 Thursday Nov 2020

Posted by productionslevin in France

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Cinsault, Surrealism, Vin Nature

An illustration from Dali’s wine book: The wines of Gala

A poem to Cinsault

From the pastures of the Rhone 

To the arid lands of the Rousillon,

You exalt me with your soft deviled nature

Oh Cinsault!!!

You bring me frenesi

Like a Mozart Lieder under the moonlight

And joy to the poet’s heart

Gourmand and provoking

Exciting like the first kiss

Of the new lover

A dark paradise for the senses

Fulfilling like the chant 

Of the hedonist chained to the gallows of the standard life

Breton on automatic writing

November 19th, 2020. The start of trying something different:Inspired by Breton’s automatism which he eloquently states:

Psychic automatism in its pure state, by which one proposes to express—verbally, by means of the written word, or in any other manner—the actual functioning of thought. Dictated by thought, in the absence of any control exercised by reason, exempt from any aesthetic or moral concern

Sun Ra: Space is the place

In keep with one of the fundamentals ideas of my manifesto: wine is poetry. It is tougher that you could think, because you have to be the gatekeeper for rational reason not to enter and pollute your beautiful free association emotional thoughts. I am actually quite happy to do it. Of course, an extra little help was needed in the form of a slender musical capsule by Coltrane and Sun Ra ( again!!, more automatism, as I write these lines). I am happy with the bravado of my poem.

I love my Rousillon. It is a lifter of an abused spirit, a free agent of joy and it simply taste incredible good. I recently bought a case of Cinsault nature by Domaine Cazes, Samso 2019 or Cinsault Nature available in Quebec via Advini for the modest price of $25.40 This is the wine that inspired me to do this poem.

Domaine Cazes-Samso aka Cinsault Rouge 2019 ( Private Import, $25.40. 6 pack case)

On the nose, aromas punctuated by leather, garrique and a hint of spice, complemented by mint and rosemary. On the palate, gourmand with lots of sexy flavours reminiscent of more red cherry with bittersweet chocolate. Juicy and fleshy and quite elegant. Really incredible value for the money invested. Wine of Sensuality

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Thoughts on wine and art appreciation

13 Wednesday May 2020

Posted by productionslevin in France, Italy

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wine and art

multicolored abstract painting

Photo by Steve Johnson on Pexels.com

Beyond food, something that always pairs well with wine is art. If you love these two subjects, you will want to learn more about these two incredible things. Have you ever wondered what wine would pair with your favorite art movement or artist? Me neither, but I thought it could be a good topic of writing.

These days with plenty of time on hand I have taken up to study art movements and different painters. My reason for this is to get a  head start for my art bachelor program coming up in the fall.

After a supper with my glass of wine, I proceed to the pleasure study of something artsy. It could be by watching a documentary or looking at a virtual gallery in Google Arts and Culture. It is a very enriching experience to combine these two passions.

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Recently I was studying Matisse with a nice glass of Bruno Duchene La Luna Rose 2018. This fauvist artist  has been described as the  master of colour and I could quickly establish a relationship between the painter style and the wine.  The work of Matisse that I studied was the portrait of his wife

La luna rose is a half half blend of Syrah and Mourvedre. Highly aromatic, it is a heady and intoxicating blend of sweet red fruit with balsamic touches and violets. On the palate, exuberant and energetic yet balanced and quite elegant.

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Source: Fine Art America

At first, the portrait of Madame Matisse gives me as well an inebriating mix of colorful emotions. It is mesmerizing specially when you look at the green line that separates the face. It clearly sets the frontier between the passionate and the placid.  Much like the line, the acidity and crispness of the rose balances out the exuberant fruitiness of the wine

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A similar parallel can be described by looking hand by hand at  Corino’s Barla 2011 and some of Henri Rousseau paintings. Barla is a late harvest Barbera and a masterpiece of a wine. Very emblematic, it strikes me with its deep and soulful black fruit notes complemented by tamarind and cacao notes. It is a primitive wine yet highly precise wine. It evoques the same feeling as when you look at some of Le Douanier paintings, especially the jungle ones.

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Rousseau The Dream. Source: Google Art Proyects

At first I was not sure of this comparison. I thought the wine resembled more like a painting of Chagall. The Russian love painter is more esoteric and subdued. A Chagall could be nicely enjoyed lets say for instance with a Grand Cru Chambertin for instance. The Barla-Rousseau comparison was the idea of my wine peep Charles. As an art newbie enthusiast, I still lack lots of expertise in analysis. 

Do you have any thoughts on enjoying art and wine pairings. What are some of your favorite pairings?

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Olivier Pithon Lais 2017

04 Wednesday Sep 2019

Posted by productionslevin in France, Rousillon

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Tasting Notes

One of my best wine purchases in 2018 was this amazing white from legendary winemaker Olivier Pithon, a wizard of the IGP Côtes Catalanes in Rousillon

Represented by Ward in Quebec, the 2017 was available in the private import market. Luckily for us in Quebec the current 2018 is now available at selected SAQ outlets. For $32 dolores, it is one best bottles of the Rousillon in the Quebec Market

A blend of Maccabeu, Grenache Gris and Blanc, this white left me speechless. It hs an incredible nose of wax bee, smoke with a hint of citronella complemented by camomile and white orchard fruit. On the palate, it has a medium to high acidity with a chewy finale and a very long aftertaste reminiscent of gunflint. Perfect pairing with a supper of grilled salmon.

Cheers!!

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Wine and vacations. Do they really go together?

02 Monday Sep 2019

Posted by productionslevin in France, Rhone

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Luberon, Rhone

two clear wine glasses

Photo by Vincent Rivaud on Pexels.com

As my family vacation came to and end, I cannot help to reflect about the hardships of not drinking proper wine and the lessons learnt by the absences of my favorite vino!!

Sophisticated wine drinkers like myself could be quite fuzzy so it could be quite challenging to find their favorite bottles in a non friendly wine environment. I would like that you think: Walt Disney and South Central Florida. Add to the equation a wife that does not drink wine and you are set for a partially frustrating holiday.

If you are going away to a non wine friendly wine destination, here is some practical tips that could make your life easier.

  • Research your area. This is the most important point and can’t stress it enough. Find out about potential wine and spirits stores and decide if their portfolio suits your taste. If you are lucky they may deliver to your hotel or airbnb in advance.
  • No expectations. Don’t make yourself ideas that you would drink special bottles in your vacation. You may arrived tired at your resort after a hard day sightseeing. This was my case every evening after visiting a theme park at Walt Disney
  • Bring your own booze. Most countries including the US and Canada would allow you up to two bottles of wine per person. If you are a person with special drinking needs ( natural wine drinkers) this is a pretty good solution
  • Try something new? The more you drink wine, the better would be your wine appreciation. If you really want to drink wine and find yourself on a tough spot, it could be a good opportunity to drink what’s available and that’s it!!
  • Wine Detox. Maybe that vacation to an unfriendly wine area is the perfect timing to quit drinking for a while. Every year, you should take some time off with booze. Trust me, you will feel better in your skin. My recent vacation was my second time this year that I took an abstinence period

When you come back to your real life, you would appreciate better the wine that you have on stock.

Were your vacations hard on your pocket? Did it cost an arm and leg and maybe one eye?. Well, here is an excellent wine reccomendation that won’t make you  pawn any additional body part!!

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Bonpas Luberon Grande Réserve des Challières 2017. SAQ # 14056515. $12.30

A beautiful white to sip outside your patio while it is still warm enough. Lovely white peach aromas with a hint of dry jazmin leaves and lots of white peonies character.  A Rhone blend  of Grenache Blanc, Clairette, Ugni blanc and Vermentino  Medium body with a plesant acidity and  flavours reminiscent of fine herbs and mandarines. Long finale reminiscent of pineapple peel. This is way too much wine quality for under $15. Buy with your eyes closed.

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I am an agent of change

29 Monday Jul 2019

Posted by productionslevin in France, Rhone, Uncategorized

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natural wine

person wearing mask holding colored smoke bomb

Photo by Connor Danylenko on Pexels.com

In my teenage years, I had left wing political inclinations. Growing up in Venezuela, it became almost an ardent religious belief that I could change everything that was wrong in Venezuelan society. This was the 90’s in Latin America and it was in fashion to listen Fito Paez, Soda Stereo, Enanitos Verdes and Soda Stereo. Feeling nostalgic now, I remember with candor how me and my friends used to drink cheap rhum and read passages of Che Guevara:The Motorcycle Diaries.

As I grew older and entered young adulthood, this romantic idealism faded away. The reality of the world was based on money and social status. My grandfather used to tell me: You know how to change an Italian communist?. Give him a good job, nice clothes, a car and sexy woman. Honestly, I felt that alone could not fight the whole system and became part of the establishment….until not long ago when I left it with flying colours

Rebel once, rebel forever. I guess that this idealism is still with me today..it never went away. I do a job that I love, live a modest life and drink a fair amount of natural wine.

My wife once asked me: So if you like natural wine, are you against those that dont drink natural wine?. It’s not about a dogma or a principle war, its about a choice that I make.I favor natural, biological and biodynamic wines because they are good for me and strongly believe that I make a contribution to preserving the planet. I sttill review conventional or classical wines. Absotutely, I will favor those with the minimum footprint on the planet

My stand with natural wine makes me an agent of positive change. The bottles that I buy, my reviews and the impressions all help to protect the real culture of wine. Actually, I am voting with my buying dollar for a better and healthier wine world.

The greatest gift that natural wine has given me, it’s a voice to express my solidarity with those vignerons that craft beautiful bottles. A long time ago, someone told me that drinking wine is an act of humility and intimacy. The act of drinking a real wine is to peek into a secret window inside the mind the secret world of a winemaker.

I am a rebel at heart for the love of wine

Domaine La Grande Colline-Hirotake-Ooka

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Le Canon 2015

One of the most emblematic wines that I have ever tried in the past years came from this man: Hirotake Ooka. It sounds odd that a Japanese guy makes natural wine in the Rhone but it is one of the weird beautiful things of life. The wines of Hirotake are available in Quebec, Canada via Primavin.

Le Canon is a tasty blend of Grenache and Syrah. It has delicious taste of leafy blackfruit with a touch of animal funk and spice. Its spritzy in the palate and it keeps really well the next day if you dont finish the bottle. The wine is born out of a soil of mica and granite and the vines have an average age of 30 years young. No oak in this wine, just steel tank. Price is under $30 per bottle and it comes in a case of 12. This bottle comes from my private collection.

I am looking foward to try its Cornas, once it becomes available via Primavin.

 

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Sebastien Riffault-Les Quarterons 2016

22 Monday Jul 2019

Posted by productionslevin in France

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natural wine, Sancerre

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This is the post of a modest wine lover who never was into Sancerre until the day he had a glass of Riffault

Generally speaking, Sancerre like Chablis are not wines that appeal to me. I can appreciate but they are very impersonal to me. They could be cold antipathic wines. I guess that I was drinking the wrong wines for many years. Not even a Sancerre from Mellot, a top producer in the appellation made my skin hair rise like the bottle of Riffault.

That’s the beauty of natural well made wine. It can break dogmas and make you see wine in a completely different optic.

They say that this way the way vignerons used to make Sancerre in the past. This wine is unique in all senses and reflect the strong opinions of the winemaker.

The nose is quite esoteric for the “real” Sancerres tasted and drank in the past. The bouquet had an enchanting taste reminiscent of passion fruit, mango with a touch of pineapple peel and even tamarind. In the palate, so fresh and delicious. It has a voloptous structure with an incredible mineral lingering finale. A beautiful wine that will go well with tuna or scallops or…

a simple meal of roasted chicken with pesto pasta and green beans.

I grabbed mine from a friend but you can get it through Vini-Vins if you live in Quebec. It retails for around $36. Highly Reccomend buy!!

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The perfect Rhone white blend for your lobster

21 Tuesday May 2019

Posted by productionslevin in France, Rhone, Uncategorized

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Lobster. Rhone Valley

lobster1

Château Pesquié Terrasses blanc 2017. SAQ #  13945265, $19.05

With Lobster season in full swing, here is the perfect opportunity to explore the white side of the Rhone Valley wines.

The Chaudière family has managed the vineyards of this estate for three generations. Only organic treatments and composts are used for the grapes. Weed management  is done by working  the soil, and harvesting is exclusively manual. There are three main terroirs on the property: rocky limestone clay, red clay and loamy gray clay. They grow Grenache, Syrah, Carignan, Cinsault, Mourvedre, Roussanne, Clairette, Viognier, Chardonnay and Muscat

A sure  solid value in the SAQ, the terrases  blanc from Pesquié is an bright, aromatic blend of Viognier, Rousanne and Clairette. Hailing from Mont Ventoux, this white will seduce you with its bright undertones of verbena, lemon meyer, apricot and honey. Fresh and round with a creamy mouthfeel and a smooth acidity, it is perfectly suited for your lobster weekday meals, specially if they are grilled!!

Disclaimer: Sample provided by the agent for review purposes

 

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Bon appetit!!

Grilled_Lobster

Source: Food Republic

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Two “Blue Chip” roses for Spring celebrating

01 Monday Apr 2019

Posted by productionslevin in France, Rhone, Tasting Notes

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Provence, Rhone Valley Vineyards, Tavel

bank notes business cash close up

Photo by Pixabay on Pexels.com

In the investment world, Blue Chip companies are the captains of their industry. These are safe and profitable enterprises that can weather adverse economic conditions and still deliver a consistent return on investment.

How does this apply to wine?. A wine producer or estate must be able to deliver a consistent and high quality product vintage after vintage. It is understandable that a wine will reflect the character of its vintage but the winemaker must be able to navigate adverse conditions and deliver a sound product. After all, in a pragmatic perspective, wine is just an economic commodity with an opportunity cost.

Who are the blue chips estates of wine?. These are the grand chateaux of France, the famous Tuscan or Spanish estates to mention a few. What do they have in common?. These producers have an established track record of consistency in wine production.

This concept can also be micro applied as well not only to the most famous name but also the small artisanal producer. What’s important to remember is result consistency.

Bottom line: treat your wine drinking like your money investing strategy and you won’t be disappointed.

Whispering Angel is the successful commercial brand of this famous Provence rose from Caves D’Esclans by Sacha Lichine. Bordelais by origin, Sacha has worked in every aspect of the wine industry. The notoriety of this wine can be attributed not only from its magnificent terroir and winemaking but as well to the business acumen of Monsieur Lichine. Sacha’s American business education and broad International wine industry experience has served me strategically well to promote his wine and overall Provence rose wine drinking.

Whispering Angel sells in more than 100 countries worldwide and has 20% market share just in the U.S wine market. It’s success can be attributed because it is well perceived among all the stakeholders of the wine industry: From the millennial wine critic to the most demanding wine critic.

This is a majority blend of Grenache, Rolle, Cinsault, Syrah and Tibouren. Pretty nose of cantaloupe, white peonies with a very refreshing acidity. Quite an appetizing wine that would be awesome with grilled seafood. At the SAQ for $26.90 ( 11416984)   for the 2018

Another all time favorite rose of mine is Domaine de la Mordoree Tavel 2017. Tavel is the only appellation in the Rhone Valley that strictly produces rose wine. Tavel roses have more weight and structure than your standard French rose wine. The aromas are spicier with darker fruit undertones, kind of like walking the fine line towards a light red wine.

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Domaine de la Mordoree is the project of father and son Francis and Christophe Delorme. Its  vineyard holdings group together 50 ha in 8 municipalities across 38 parcels in the Rhone Valley. In 30 years, Francis Delorme elevated this domaine and  consequently the appellation to one of the best of the Rhone Valley and the world.

Sadly Christophe passed away in 2015 but his work legacy continue in the hands of her wife and daughter Madeleine and Ambre. This domaine is in  totality biological with a biodynamic approach.

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Spaghetti with fresh tomato sauce and tuna rio mare

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2 Pizzas: tomato meat sauce and rapini with mushrooms

La Dame Rousse is a mix of Grenache 60 % Cinsault 10% Syrah 10 % Mourvèdre
10% Clairette 5% Bourboulenc 5%. The vineyards are relatively old ( 40 years) and they grow in a mix of terroir that include rocky and sandy soils

Very pleasant on the nose with floral aromas reminiscent of potpourri, watermelon with a hint of violets and strawberry ganache. Dry and structured on the palate with a perfect tension between acidity and ripe fruit. Smoky finale.

One of the few roses that  can stand up to savoury flavors of tomato based pastas and pizzas. The 2017 retails at the SAQ for $31.25 ( 12376881). It is a must buy for your upcoming BBQ’s as well.

asparagus barbecue cuisine delicious

Grilled pork tenderloin with asparagus

Disclaimer: The above wines were tasted at my local SAQ outlet in Repentigny, Quebec. The author does not have any commercial relationship with the importers and these were not samples. 

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Celebrating Spring with Domaine Mosse

19 Tuesday Mar 2019

Posted by productionslevin in France

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petnat, Spring

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Tomorrow marks the first day of Spring and what better way to celebrate it with a glass of sparkling wine. A good glasss of bubbly is festive but not all sparkling wine is made equal. I adore to drink sparkling while BBQ as an aperitivo or if am sitting in my terrace enjoying a smoke

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Not too long ago I share with  a friend a magnum of Domaine Mosse Moussamoussettes.  It happens often among wine buddies that we buy a wine case and split it with other wine lovers.

Domaine Mosse is a leading natural wine  producer from the Loire of delicious wines particularly those made with Chenin Blanc. This producer have a cult following among natural wine lovers in Montreal. Cant wait to try their other wines including the magic of juju

This pet nat rosé is  made by onefrom Gamay and Grolleau Gris.  It is juicy and brisk, flavors of baked peaches, herbs and a touch of watermelon and red oranges.  A bit funky as well in a good way. Refreshing, fruity. Delightful. Incredible drinkability and dangerous too!!!. A great food pairing wine with cheese or baked omelette!!!

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If you live in Quebec, you can get it privately via its importer Le Vin Dans Le Voiles. 

The standard bottle (750 m) will set you for $38.52 for a 12 bottle case. It is available at the moment. The magnum will be available as of June and it trades for $75.88 ( 6 bottle case)

Highly reccomend it and a must try to explore a natural alternative style of sparkling wine.

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Chartier Créateur d’Harmonies Fronsac 2015

14 Thursday Mar 2019

Posted by productionslevin in France

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Bordeaux, Chartier

I love good Bordeaux but it has gotten a bit expensive for my wallet. So when I hear, under $20 and the reputation of an excellent vintage for Bordeaux is music for ears. Add to this, a famous name behind the bottle and I got myself a symphony.

Chartier is a well know personality in the world wine industry. Either you love or hate it, it is up to you. He was best world sommelier ( Grand Prix Sopexa 1994) and has published more than 24 books since 1996. Now he makes terrific wines. His critics say he is a sold out, making commercial wines. I totally disagree, he is a pragmatic businessman making outstanding value wines.

Since 2011 he has been on the other side of the fence with his French and Spanish wine project. He is a producteur négociant-éleveur and his wine get better and better with each vintage. It success can be attributed to of course his experience but also his collaboration with Bordeaux winemaker Pascal Chatonnet, his partner in the enterprise.

Fronsac is a “satellite” appellations of Bordeaux that includes Côtes de Castillon, Lalande de Pomerol, Fronsac, Canon Fronsac, Bordeaux Superieur, Entre Deux Mers and Côtes de Bordeaux and it shined on the 2015 vintage.

In recent years Fronsac has been enjoying great critical acclaim for high quality Merlot driven wines made from top notch clay and limestone terroirs.

The 2015 vintage is terrific displaying ripe but not overly concentrated notes of morello cherry, raspberry with leafy blackcurrants and cedar. On the palate, it is round with sweet mouth coating tannins. The wine spent mostly 14 months in one and two years old barrique which gives the wine a creamy and satiny texture with not too much wood retronasal flavors. It is racy and quite long in the mouth. If you have some in your cellar, hold to it for another 5 years and you will be pleasantly surprised. If you don’t, get yourself a case and stash it away. The 2015 currently retails at the SAQ ( 12068070 ). One of the best Bordeaux available at the SAQ for under $20. ( $18.05)

 

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Marco Giovanetti

Wine expert and lover of life's nicest pleasures

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