Time passes by fast. Too many wines , too little time. Here are some of the most memorable wines that I have drank recently in the past several weeks. As you will see, my selection is heavily Rhone oriented. I am a big fan of Rhone wines.
Thierry Allemand Cornas Chaillot 2011. Importer in Quebec: Oenopole
One of the cult producers of Cornas, Allemand it is described as the sleeping beauty of the appellation. Until you try his wines, you will never know what Cornas is all about.
Sexy shades of granit syrah. Mind boggling black fruit notes with a lot of depth in the floral and animal registry. bouquet (bacon fat). From dry licorice to confit violets with very high strung peony notes On the palate, notes of smoke, star anise complemented by fine leather and complex animal notes.Fluid and silky, this wine is all about texture. If you have some in your cellar, wait a few years before opening a bottle because it stills has a story to tell. The ultimate in elegance. Keep it for the next 5-7 years to reach optimum maturity.
Philippe Bornard Ploussard Point Barre 2015 Cotes du Jura. Importer in Quebec: Glou
It always feels like lovemaking when I drink a wine of Philippe Bornard, a Jura winemaker that I hold dear in my heart. A seducing wine that display sexy notes of red currant fruit with tones of red orange and tamed leather notes. On the mouth, very refreshing with a great acidity and a very alluring finale that hits a high note of old spice.
Domaine de la Mordorée Tavel La Dame Rousse 2016. Importer in Quebec: La Celeste Levure
When it comes to rosé, the wines of Tavel are an oddysey to the dark side of the style, there are few roses in the world with such a deep colour.
Tavel only make rosée, not white or red. Only rose can carry the Tavel appellation designation. Many producers make ends meet by making white and red wines in close by appellation that permits them such as Lirac or Chateauneuf-du-Pape. More full-bodied than most roses, Grenache and Cinsault are the key grapes in Tavel, though Syrah, Mourvedre, Picpoul, Calitor, Carignan, Bourbolenc and Clairette are also allowed.
Fine nose of macerated red berries ( cranberries, cherry, strawberry come to mind) wrapped in garrique notes. Deep and concentrated with a beautiful acidity. Zesty flavours of blood orange withan oily texture and long finish
Jean Francois Jacouton 2015 Saint-Joseph Souvenirs d’Andre.
I discovered this wonderful producer last year when I went to Découvertes en Vallée du Rhône. Jacouton is a young winemaker making wine in the region since 2010. His white St-Joseph is one of the best that I have ever tried combining finesse, elegance and structure. Also, it has terrific aromas of flavors of cream, roasted almond and brigth peaches. I am looking foward to continue to try wines from this producer and I hope one day he will be represented in Quebec.
Eric Pfifferling, L’Anglore 2013 Lirac. Importer in Quebec: Glou
L’Anglore was one of the first natural wines that I have ever tried. This is the boutique proyect of Eric Pfiffferling who is installed in Tavel between Avignon and Uzés. In 1988 Eric Pfifferling got an offer from his aunt to take over 4ha old vignes in the heart of Tavel. This was his change of career from beekeeper to winegrower. In the initial phase he brought his harvest to the Tavel cooperative. However, It was in 2002 that he try his hand at vinification himself for the first time.
Eric coplants in his property Grenache, Cinsault, Clairette and Carignan something that is rare to see in the appellation. Eric strives to make natural wines that are the result of minimal oenological intervention. The soil is cultivated without using weed killers. It is picked manually and the harvest is delivered to the domain in small containers.After a pre-fermentation maceration without de-fermentation and by using only their own yeast cells, the grapes ferment in open wooden cuves without the addition of sulphite and enzymes.
The wines are not filtered and the wines have minimum sulfur. The result is soft, seductive and charming wines full of subtlety and finesse. Some of his cuvées flirt with a perfume of honey and flowers, a nod to his previous life. This Lirac 2013 opened up recently from my cellar was just stunning. The precision and purity of fruit is incredible with an incredible texture. There is something mystical on the wines of L’Anglore. There is nothing that resembles that in the appellation.
The sad news is that the thirst for L’anglore is incredible high and is near impossible to find bottles. If you wish to receive an allocation, it is a miracle. I am keeping my last bottles for me and some of my close colleagues